tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38396125639611723162023-06-20T13:24:27.855+00:00A Sierra Leonean SummerFrolicking in FreetownDavidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01649679455670821733noreply@blogger.comBlogger50125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3839612563961172316.post-37882796329017442162011-09-08T13:46:00.000+00:002011-09-08T13:47:27.391+00:00Column No. 39 - Life and Death(Editor's note: This column includes some pieces from the blog entry a couple weeks ago by the same name, but it's still very different. And much better.)<br /><br />Life and death<br />By David Krueger<br /><br />Last Thursday was really weird. My friends and I all attended the funeral for the late father of one of the members of our group. It was a sad day. I don’t think many people look forward to funerals.<br /><br />We first heard of the passing on the 19th of August, which also happened to be the birthday of another one of my friends. She rearranged the plans so that we could all spend the night together. Meanwhile, another friend left work early to be with David, a local Sierra Leonean.<br /><br />I did the only thing I could think of to help: I went to the supermarket and bought whisky.<br /><br />Sometimes, you just need a drink. This seemed like one of these times. Plus, as an American, I feel like while abroad it’s my job to bring whisky to any monumental occasion, good or bad.<br /><br />That night we all hung out at the YMCA, drank whisky, listened to music and pretended like it was any other Friday night. We were all thinking about the same thing, but didn’t say it. Eventually, the music (I’m going to choose to account the rest of the night to that…but in all honesty it was probably the whisky) led us down the street to Krio Wendy’s, our go-to bar.<br /><br />We danced and laughed and had a legitimately good night. <br /><br />For the next couple weeks we didn’t discuss the death of David’s father much. It was always in the back of my mind, but I didn’t know a good way to approach the topic. Heck, I didn’t know if I even should.<br /><br />We learned that there would be a funeral on the 1st September and all pledged our support to David. One person went in the morning before she had to leave early to catch a flight to return to Germany. <br /><br />That’s how great our group is. We’re like a family. When one person goes through a tragedy, we rally around that person to help in any way we can. Whether it’s with whisky, or something else.<br /><br />I really don’t like funerals. I know that they’re meant to honor the deceased and say goodbye, but there’s no escaping the sadness of the day and the thought that the person is really gone.<br /><br />I suppose I shouldn’t have been surprised, but funerals here are a bit different from those back home.<br /><br />The first striking difference was the presence of cameras. Pictures and video were taken, which doesn’t usually happen back home. Perhaps a camera may make an appearance at a reception after the service, but in the church there usually aren’t any pictures taken.<br /><br />Before the church service started there was a gathering of family and friends at Josiah Square in Lumley. <br /><br />There, everyone assembled and received programs and pins, something we don’t do in the States but I wish we did. I liked that way of honoring the deceased. It also created a sense of unity among those at the funeral, most of whom I had never met before.<br /><br />While there, I was asked if I would be comfortable taking a picture with David, his father lying in the casket and the rest of our friends. In all honesty, I wasn’t sure I was. I had never taken a picture with a deceased person before. But, it was obvious that it was something that would help David, so all the guys in our group obliged. One of the four girls went up.<br /><br />Then we waited as three vehicles took the large group over to the church for the service. Appropriately, the rain was pouring down, harder than I’ve ever seen it rain before in Sierra Leone. I couldn’t help but feel like God was sad, and crying along with us here in Freetown. <br /><br />Eventually, we all arrived at the church and the service began. It was very similar to the funeral s I had been to in America. The family read bible verses and the pastor talked about how David’s father was now in a better place.<br /><br />I feel like during funerals in the United States, there’s a lot more talking by the family, instead of just the leaders of the church. Usually a family member gives a eulogy, where he or she speaks to each person of the family on behalf of the deceased. For example, when my maternal grandmother passed away my mother read the eulogy, and said to my sister and me, “and to David and Emily, just know that your grandmother loved you very much and was very proud of you.”<br /><br />In my experience, the person reading the eulogy rarely gets through it without crying. In fact, I don’t ever think I’ve seen that happen.<br /><br />After the funeral we went to the burial in a nearby cemetery. This was almost identical to burials back home. The deceased is buried, as prayers and bible verses are recited. When my uncle passed away it was just like it. I even had a few flashbacks to that day during David’s father’s service.<br /><br />Then it was time for a reception and some food, again, very similar to how funerals are done back home. The gathering was much shorter than it would be in America, with people getting some food, hanging out for a short time and then leaving.<br /><br />At my uncle’s funeral people spent the whole afternoon and evening together. I’m not entirely sure that was planned though. Somehow we all just ended up at my grandparents’ house, and the number of people there grew and grew throughout the course of the afternoon, eventually resulting in my paternal grandmother not having near enough food to feed all those people dinner.<br /><br />From all accounts, this was the first time in the history of the world that my grandmother had run out of food. Normally, when I go back to North Dakota and visit during the summer, there’s more food than I know what to do with. Rarely do I return home without gaining some weight.<br /><br />In the end funerals across the world all serve the same purpose: honoring the deceased. That doesn’t mean it’s ever easy though. <br /><br />I had a really strong desire to talk to my parents after the funeral, but was able to corral my nervousness until the usual Sunday night chats. <br /><br />My biggest concern while I’m here is that something will happen to a loved one back home. I worry more about that than malaria, break-ins and food poisoning combined. It’s always on my mind back in the U.S. too, but here the distance seems to amplify the feeling.<br /><br />It seems like there’s no shaking that feeling. Really, you just have to take solace in the fact that once someone dies they go to heaven (or whatever your religion’s equivalent is) and get to enjoy a better world.<br /><br />I guess I always felt that death is kind of like a Monday. You know it’s going to come, and there’s absolutely nothing you can do to stop it. So you might as well enjoy the weekend.Davidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01649679455670821733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3839612563961172316.post-91257877983090107462011-09-08T13:45:00.002+00:002011-09-08T13:46:18.773+00:00Column No. 38 - My Two Hours with MalariaMy two hours with malaria<br />By David Krueger<br /><br />There are two events I’ve wanted to write about but haven’t gotten around to yet because of the stories about Tiwai Island and the Sierra Leone-Egypt football game. The next two columns will be about two occasions that happened last week.<br /><br />I suppose the first one could serve as the epilogue for the Tiwai Trilogy. <br /><br />When I got back to Freetown I was really sick. I spent most of Monday lying in bed until I was ordered by a couple of friends to go get a malaria test. I should have immediately known that it was not going to be a simple experience.<br /><br />The first clinic a friend took me to was closed. We hurried up the road and managed to get into another one as the staff was preparing to go home. I felt bad for keeping them at work longer than they were supposed to be, but my friend was adamant I needed a test done, and told them that.<br /><br />Unfortunately, because the clinic was closing, they wouldn’t have the results until the next day. <br /><br />“That’s fine,” I thought. I was pretty sure I didn’t have malaria because I felt a lot better after getting some sleep and taking some medicine I brought from America to lower my temperature.<br /><br />Tuesday was Pray Day, a national holiday where not many businesses in Freetown were open. The clinic was among those offices that were closed.<br /><br />“That’s fine,” I thought again. I felt even better on Tuesday and was even more confident I didn’t have malaria. I decided I would stop by the clinic on the way to work on Wednesday to get my results.<br /><br />It turned out the next morning would not be that simple. I arrived at the clinic a little before 10 a.m. and asked about my test results. They had taken them to the YMCA (the address I put on my form), which wasn’t very far from the clinic.<br /><br />I wandered over to the YMCA to see if they had the results. They didn’t. My friend had picked them up and he wasn’t around. I called him to see if he was close. <br /><br />“Yes, yes, I’m coming,” my friend said over the phone. “You have malaria. Yeah. I’m coming.”<br /><br />My heart sunk. I felt very sad and exceptionally angry at the same time. I didn’t want malaria. I take medicine every day that’s supposed to help prevent me from getting the disease, and it has some rather unpleasant side effects.<br /><br />The pills tear my stomach apart, making me feel sick almost as soon as I take it. It also makes me more susceptible to sunburns, which is something that my pale skin needs absolutely no help with.<br /><br />I also sleep under a mosquito net every night, just like I was instructed. I was confused as to how this could happen, and unsure what to do next.<br /><br />My friend arrived and we went back to the clinic. He had to depart because he wasn’t feeling very well either. In order to get medicine I had to wait for the doctor to arrive and write a prescription. The only problem was he wasn’t due in the office for another half an hour.<br /><br />So I went to the Awoko office and dropped my bag off. I informed them of what was going on and I’m pretty sure they could tell by the look on my face that I was having a rather difficult morning.<br /><br />At 11 I went back to the clinic to see the doctor. I waited for 20 minutes, swearing under my breath and still frustrated that I couldn’t just be at work right now writing about Tiwai Island. Finally, he called me into his office and performed a checkup. Then he asked if I was allergic to medicines with sulfur in them. I had no idea, so I said “probably not.”<br /><br />You’ll know if you are because you’ll have black spots appear on your skin, he informed me.<br /><br />That’s awesome, I thought. Is there any medicine I could take that won’t alter the color of my skin?<br /><br />I didn’t have enough money with me for the two prescriptions he wanted me to take, so I had to go back to the office and walk back to the clinic (for the third time in less than two hours) to pick up my prescription so I could fill it somewhere else. While at the office a coworker told me I should go to another clinic nearby and get it checked out. The doctor is really good I was told.<br /><br />At this point I figured why not? I was pretty sure I was never going to be done going to clinics and pharmacies. All I really wanted to do was just stay in the office and get to work. <br /><br />A short time later I was waiting in my second doctor’s office of the morning. I had already had my finger pricked so that the nurse could take some blood for a quick malaria test. By this point I was getting used to those.<br /><br />However, this time the doctor prescribed cold tabs. No anti-malaria medicine. No black spots. It was just a cold he said.<br /><br />Happily, I took the prescription and got up to leave. I looked back at the doctor, sitting behind a pile of papers, and couldn’t keep from asking.<br /><br />“So, uh, I don’t have malaria?” I asked, in an obviously weird tone that mixed confusion and enthusiasm.<br /><br />“No,” the doctor replied, picking up the malaria test and showing it to me. “Very negative.”<br /><br />I couldn’t contain my smile as I left the office, right around noon, and went with my coworker to pick up my medicine. That took another half an hour, and then we went to get some lunch because the morning’s events had kept me from eating anything up until that point.<br /><br />After what seemed like forever, but was really only about three and a half hours, I returned to the Awoko office around 1:30 and was just so happy to be done with doctors and malaria tests.<br /><br />I quickly thanked God (and apologized for my parade of swear words earlier in the first doctor’s office) and got to work. I was so excited to finally be able to work that I wrote the entire Tiwai Trilogy, and had it edited and ready to go in about two hours. <br /><br />After work I headed back to the YMCA to tell all my friends the good news. I got to the balcony, with an incredible view overlooking Freetown, and just sat down.<br /><br />Immediately, they all began to ask me how I was feeling and how the malaria test went.<br /><br />“Was it positive?” They asked.<br /><br />I just sat back in my chair and smiled. <br /><br />“You guys won’t believe the morning I had,” I said.Davidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01649679455670821733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3839612563961172316.post-47351960076350385532011-09-08T13:45:00.001+00:002011-09-08T13:45:46.124+00:00Column No. 37 - Football FrenzyFootball frenzy<br />By David Krueger<br /><br />Saturday was probably the most fun that I’ve had in Sierra Leone. The day featured a pretty important football game between the Sierra Leone Stars and Egypt Pharaohs. Maybe you heard about it.<br /><br />I had the distinct pleasure of helping cover the game for Awoko. I had been asking about the game since the week I arrived, and made it very clear that I would love to help out in any way I could on September 3rd. <br /><br />The newspaper helped facilitate my request, further proving that my job is awesome.<br /><br />Bernard Turay, the Awoko sports reporter, and I headed to the field around three p.m. It was already crazy outside the National Stadium, with people (who may or may not have had tickets) fighting to get past security (and their big metal doors) and into the field to see their hometown team play the defending African champions.<br /><br />Once we finally got in and down to the field, I felt like I was in heaven. I just walked around the field taking pictures. I snapped everything. I got images of both teams warming up, as well as the crowd jumping up to cheer.<br /><br />I got a picture of me in the players’ tunnel and even found some friends up in Section 17 and captured a few shots of them waving.<br /><br />The pregame events were fun as well, with Sierra Leone Vice President Alhaji Sam Sumana and Brazilian football legend Marta making appearances at the game.<br /><br />However, as much fun as the afternoon was, nothing could top the excitement that was about to come.<br /><br />From the first whistle on it was loud and exciting in the National Stadium. It only got crazier in the 14th minute when Sheriff Suma put the Stars ahead with an incredible corner kick that bended toward the goal, deflected slightly off an Egyptian defender, and found its way into the back of the net.<br /><br />Then it became one big party in Freetown.<br /><br />Water packets (and whatever else fans happened to have in their hands) rained down onto the pitch as Sierra Leoneans celebrated their lead. <br /><br />Unfortunately, the party only lasted about a half an hour. Egypt equalized right before half to stun the crowd and send them into a somber mood during the break.<br /><br />By the 70th minute everyone in the stadium was getting a little antsy. Fights were erupting between supporters as they watched patiently for someone to break the tie.<br /><br />When a close Sierra Leone corner kick failed to yield a goal, there was a universal “oh” that echoed throughout the stadium. Everyone stood up, seemingly just so they could throw their arms down in frustration.<br /><br />That frustration finally ended in the 88th minute. Mohamed Bangura, aka “Poboski,” was breaking toward the goal when he was taken down from behind by a defender, while in the penalty box.<br /><br />The referee signaled for a free kick and I never heard cheering so loud in my life. If I didn’t know any better I would’ve thought the Stars had just won the game, but I was pretty sure they still needed to take the lead.<br /><br />One minute later they had that lead, and three minutes after that they had the win. The stadium (and country) proceeded to go crazy.<br /><br />In the United States there’s a popular saying among sportswriters who like to think they are completely unbiased toward the team they are covering: “there’s no cheering in the press box.”<br /><br />Fortunately, I wasn’t sitting in the press box. I was sitting in the stands with the rest of the fans, as they stormed the field before the game had even officially ended. As they cheered, I cheered. Not only did Sierra Leone pull out a win, but they did it with quite a bit of drama and tension.<br /><br />Eventually, I made it onto the field as well. This was good and bad. It was good because I had to cut across the field to get to the locker room to interview players and coaches. It was bad because I had to sneak through a riot that was developing at midfield.<br /><br />With Bernard keeping me close, we moved swiftly across the pitch, dodging fighters and debris. We finally made it through the tunnel and into the locker room, where another party was going on. I tried to talk to the head coach, but he was busy celebrating with players.<br /><br />After briefly chatting with Ibrahim Tetah Bangura, who claimed he “knew we would win,” I was able to find the man of the hour, Poboski himself. I don’t think you could have taken the smile of his face if you tried. <br /><br />“I’m so happy,” Poboski said. “We have been suffering for a long time.”<br /><br />Then Poboski said what everybody in Freetown already knew: “There’s going to be a big party tonight.”<br /><br />My interviews were cut off, as the team celebrated and prepared to leave before the mob of fans outside the locker room were able to break the door down. Feeling a little sad that it was all over, we took off for the Awoko office.<br /><br />On the way back we got caught up in an impromptu victory parade. The highlights were a guy doing backflips in the street (while moving with the pace of the parade, which I found very impressive) and a little kid with a lisp who was screaming “Egypt suxth.”<br /><br />Horns were honking, traffic was all but stopped and nobody seemed to care. It was time to celebrate!<br /><br />The 2-1 victory in the African Cup of Nations qualifier means Sierra Leone is in a better position to qualify for the final round of the tournament, which could land them in Brazil for the 2014 World Cup. A friend and I are planning (actually “hoping” might be a more appropriate verb) to go to that tournament. <br /><br />We made a deal last year to go to the 2014 World Cup and 2016 Olympics, both in Rio de Janiero.<br /><br />Later on (i.e. Sunday) I had some time to digest what I had witnessed the night before. The more I thought about it the more I realized what an incredible spectacle I had seen. <br /><br />After some careful consideration, I’m pretty sure I’m ready to declare Saturday the most exciting moment here. I think it overtook the feeling I had getting off the airplane right around the time Poboski rocketed the ball past the Egyptian goalkeeper.<br /><br />It was so exciting because both teams had something to prove. Egypt, fielding a particularly young team, wanted to show that they belonged in the tournament, and fought hard the entire game.<br /><br />On the other side of the pitch, Sierra Leone had one of its strongest teams ever, and wanted to show it could win a game it should win and continue its quest to keep playing games all the way up to the next World Cup in Rio de Janiero. <br /><br />With any luck I’ll be in Brazil in the summer of 2014. If they keep playing like they did on Saturday, the Sierra Leone Stars just might be there with me.Davidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01649679455670821733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3839612563961172316.post-67238957172951568892011-09-08T13:44:00.000+00:002011-09-08T13:45:08.484+00:00Column No. 36 - Tiwai Trilogy Part 3The Tiwai Trilogy Part 3: Getting home<br />By David Krueger<br /><br />The final installment of the Tiwai Trilogy chronicles my first (and last) morning on Tiwai Island, and the miracle from God that allowed us to finally get home.<br /> <br />The decision was made (without me) to leave while the others were either eating breakfast or on their nature walk. I’m not quite sure which. I was asleep. But I woke up and they were all standing around asking me if I was ready to go. I wasn’t, but I quickly packed my stuff before my headache came back and we left the tents.<br /><br />I had woken up with a temperature that is about equal to the total number of goals Lionel Messi will have in two weeks: 39.4 (a couple will bounce off the crossbar, we’ll call those worth .2 goals). I also had a headache that made it feel like someone had punched me in the head, decided that wasn’t enough and smashed a chair over it.<br /><br />On top of that my nose still had its stuffed/runny situation going on, and I continuously had to go to the bathroom, which was challenging.<br /><br />This led me to get up in the middle of the night, during which it rained the entire time, and try to walk to the bathroom, only to step into a giant river of water. Eventually, I just stood at the end of the campsite and went to the bathroom. <br /><br />I hope the people I went to Tiwai Island with don’t read this column.<br /><br />Despite all of this I was really sad to leave. I felt terrible (and still feel terrible) that we had to leave a day early because of me. The staff all waited in line to shake our hands and say goodbye as we left the visitor’s area. They wished us well and told me to feel better soon.<br /><br />The rain continued and I quickly would wonder if I would have been better off (and healthier) just staying at the campsite.<br /><br />I knew it was going to be one heck of a journey home when the boat made it upstream and across the river, then stalled about 10 meters from the bank. Just as we were wondering who was going to give me a crash course in swimming, the engine inexplicably blasted back to life. <br /><br />We walked up the path and waited a few minutes for a group of three motorbikes to get together to drive us to a nearby village where we were to catch a puda puda back to Bo. Eventually, they picked us up and we went on the bumpy 45-minute ride.<br /><br />Meanwhile, the rain continued to pour down. I’m not going to write this sentence again. It makes me sad. For the rest of this column, assume that while everything is happening, rain is pouring down.<br /><br />After the motorbike ride, where we had to stop to fix the chain after it fell off, I was fairly certain I was well on my way to hypothermia. My friend pointed out that my lips and face were purple, matching the color of the University of Washington shirt I was wearing. I thought this was amusing and felt better for about three seconds, then I started shivering again.<br /><br />I was shaking and trying to warm up when I saw without a doubt, the eeriest thing I’ve ever seen in my life. Three children came up to wave at us, with “666” marked on their foreheads. I don’t think it was permanent, but regardless, the mark of the devil is rarely soothing.<br /><br />More eager than ever to leave, our wish was finally granted 30 minutes later when a puda puda going to Bo stopped and picked us up. I sat in the front first, but my friends moved me to the back because the open window really didn’t help me warm up.<br /><br />I think I would have preferred to stay in the front. I ended up by a very sick little girl, which broke my heart. She vomited several times, both on her mother and me. I knew she wasn’t okay and wanted to do anything I could to help. I held my arm out for her to rest on while my friends gave her mother a cup of water and a roll of toilet tissue for the girl.<br /><br />The girl never let out a scream, nor did she make any noise. I looked over and saw tears rolling down her face, and wanted to tell the puda puda driver to hurry the heck up so this little girl could get wherever she needed to go.<br /><br />That, coupled with my own sickness and inability to warm up, meant I spent the better part of the puda puda ride just trying not to cry. I haven’t cried for about nine years but Sunday was pushing it. I was able to distract myself when I saw the American flag in the front of the vehicle. Silently, I began to sing the United States National Anthem to myself. <br /><br />It worked. I felt a little better. Or, at least didn’t feel worse.<br /><br />About 120 National Anthems (and a nap) later we made it to Bo and stood on the side of the road (I’m not going to say how the weather was, but you know) for a good 40 minutes waiting for a taxi. We talked to a man who said he’d arrange a vehicle for us and thanked him. Forty-five minutes later I wanted to punch him in the face.<br /><br />I was about to give up all hope of ever returning to Freetown (or ever being healthy again) when my roommate and good friend Dr. Mohamed Alpha Jalloh, or “Maj” as he’s known by around the house, came out of nowhere and called my name, literally answering my prayers.<br /><br />He was heading home from Bo and saw me on the side of the road. He pulled over, and was ready to give my friends and I a ride back home. I was so happy. Until the jerk trying to get us a taxi, who we’re just going to call “Mr. Grumpy” from here on, declared Maj had to pay him a fee because apparently he owned the road in Bo. <br /><br />Maj was not happy. Neither was I. We yelled and argued (Maj yelled, I argued) and ended up at a police station pleading our case against Mr. Grumpy’s fee of Le15,000. I’m still not sure who won. I’m inclined to say us, because we didn’t pay anything. The officer appeared to take Mr. Grumpy’s side, but his breath smelled of alcohol so we were pretty sure we could still dodge the fee.<br /><br />A brilliant plan was developed: Dr. Maj would drive up the road a couple hundred meters and then we’d sneak off and jump in the car and take off. The plan worked flawlessly. <br /><br />We began walking away from Mr. Grumpy, and even stopped by a cinema to “check” the score of a football game (I know, we could do this for a living). We walked down the road, looking at stands like we were going to buy some food. <br /><br />Then it appeared someone was following us. If nothing else, he was just staring at us. We slowed down and allowed him to pass us. Once he passed the car as well we sped up, jumped in the car and headed home.<br /><br />Relief spread over me. It was seven at night. We had been on the road (or trying to get on the road) for about six hours, and I was not feeling much better. However, Dr. Maj had the best mix of music going over the speakers, so I soon calmed down and felt much better.<br /><br />At least, until I heard the Manchester United-Arsenal score. <br /><br />“That’s terrible,” I thought, “but at least I’m going home.”Davidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01649679455670821733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3839612563961172316.post-42109423346691803122011-09-08T13:43:00.000+00:002011-09-08T13:44:11.808+00:00Column No. 35 - Tiwai Trilogy Part 2The Tiwai Trilogy Part 2: On the Island<br />By David Krueger<br /><br />The second part of the Tiwai Trilogy talks about the 20 hours we spent on the beautiful Tiwai Island.<br /><br />Looking back I wish I would have paid more attention to the walk from the river to the Tiwai Island campsite more. It was pretty much the most exploring I would get to do on the Island and the best I would feel (at least after we ate a snack).<br /><br />After getting off the boat we hurried to the Tiwai Island visitor’s center and met the staff. They were some of the best and nicest people I’ve met in Sierra Leone. They explained the area to us, some activities we could participate in and told us what would be the best time to go exploring for pygmy hippopotamuses. <br /><br />They told us to discuss our options among ourselves and let them know what we decided we wanted to do. While having a group discussion to plan our next two days we quickly realized we had one big problem: we didn’t have enough money. <br /><br />We had overshot our estimated budget for the trip pretty much by Sunday night. That wasn’t too bad if we wanted to sleep in the grass that evening and not be able to afford to get home on Monday. We didn’t really want either of those things to happen.<br /><br />So we were able to negotiate with the staff of Tiwai Island to get a lower price for the campsite for the second night, which saved our trip and made us fall in love with the island even more.<br /><br />Tiwai Island is incredible. Seriously. Go right now. Well, finish reading the newspaper, then go.<br /><br />There are nature paths to walk along, a shower and toilette to use and a covered area to cook, eat and hang out under. For sleeping there are tents grouped into campsites. The tents include mattresses and are a lot cleaner than you might expect for being outdoors.<br /><br />The people working on the island made us feel welcome and at home. We spend our first hour eating (which we hadn’t done for hours) and cautiously walking around a few of the paths.<br /><br />Before we get too far into this I want to stress something: I’m not really big on camping.<br /><br />I don’t hate it or anything, I just didn’t do a lot of it growing up. I know how to start a fire, as long as I have a lighter. I also know first aid! I’m really good at putting band aids on bleeding wounds, as long as they’re relatively small.<br /><br />Fortunately, the tents were already set up for us. I thanked God for this because had the tents not already been erected, we probably wouldn’t have spent that night in them. None of us trusted our abilities to adequately pitch a tent, least of all me.<br /><br />There were so many options, but our first activity on Tiwai Island was pretty easy to agree upon: eating. We were all very hungry and whipped out some bread, cheese and jam that we had brought with us.<br /><br />This is another funny story. For some reason we thought we had to bring everything with us to the Island, from water to whisky. We bought hot dogs and pasta for our two dinners, and enough bread to feed the entire YMCA breakfast. <br /><br />It turns out Tiwai Island has a restaurant somewhere (I didn’t see it) that also serves pasta, as well as favorites like Cassava Leaf. They also have cold beverages, including soft drinks and Star beer. I felt foolish because half of the weight on my back was food and drink-related.<br /><br />We laughed and decided it was better to be over-prepared than under-prepared. I agree. I’d rather have my choice between the whisky we brought and Star, then have nothing to drink at all. Of course, we had water too. Don’t worry.<br /><br />After the snack we wandered along some of the trails, careful not to go too far into the forest and get lost. While walking we heard rustling in the bushes which made me a bit uneasy. I had heard there were monkeys, birds and bugs in the forest and I wasn’t sure if they liked Americans and Germans.<br /><br />On this particular trip I found myself travelling with three Germans, as well as a Sierra Leonean that speaks fluent German. I speak no German but hoped that my last name (Krueger) would make me an honorary German.<br /><br />Our group explored for a while and then came back to the main center of Tiwai Island, where I got my first ever juggling lesson. <br /><br />I want that last sentence to really sink in. I came all the way to Salone, and the then travelled all the way to Tiwai Island, where I spent a good ten minutes of my life trying to learn how to juggle. This proves that sometimes you just don’t know what life has planned for you.<br /><br />It became very apparent that I wasn’t going to be good at juggling, but I was good at one thing: shuffling playing cards. After wowing the group with my skills, we played a few hands before an all too familiar feeling hit.<br /><br />After a game the two girls with us began to look uneasy. I turned around and there it was: the biggest spider I have ever seen in my life. This spider could have eaten the spiders in Kambia and not even been full. I’m not sure “spider” sufficiently describes the creature. Maybe “super spider.”<br /><br />Just then the power went out, as if on cue. We put one flashlight toward the entrance and another on the super spider, careful to track its movements. One by one we bolted out of the covered area (and right by the spider). Only one of us fell down while this occurred (me). <br /><br />We decided this would be a good time to eat, and cooked the hot dogs we bought from the supermarket. They were horrible. I mentioned before that one of us (again, me) got very sick during this trip, and I still blame those awful hot dogs for it. The best way to describe the taste is dirt, hot dirt, old dirt and a dirty wind all combined.<br /><br />I don’t remember what brand the hot dogs were, but if I did rest assured I would warn you all against them forever, because I care (and because nobody should have to eat something like that).<br /><br />Determined not to let the world’s worst hot dogs ruin our night, we headed back to the tents and got ready for bed. We sat around, sang “The Lion Sleeps Tonight” and I told a bedtime story eerily similar to “The Lion King.”<br /><br />Eventually, the tent emptied out and one by one we fell asleep. <br /><br />Well, most of us. I remained awake for most of the night with a stuffed and runny nose. I’m not sure how those two seemingly opposite symptoms occurred at the same time either, but it tends to work that way.<br /><br />The next day my nose would be the least of my problems.<br /><br />To be continued…Davidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01649679455670821733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3839612563961172316.post-14915623499681111182011-09-08T13:42:00.000+00:002011-09-08T13:43:39.175+00:00Column No. 34 - Tiwai Trilogy Part 1The Tiwai Trilogy Part 1: The road to Tiwai <br />By David Krueger<br /><br />The first of three columns describing two days traveling to and from Tiwai Island, as well as the approximately 20 hours I spent there.<br /><br />My trip to the South featured a lot of the same things as my trip to the North. There was a new regional nickname, an uncomfortable ride back in a puda puda and, of course, giant spiders.<br /><br />However, the trip to Tiwai Island was actually quite different from that to Kambia. The biggest difference was I wasn’t going for work. Four friends from the YMCA and I decided to take a three-day weekend and visit the wildlife sanctuary in the hopes of seeing some pygmy hippopotamuses. <br /><br />You know what that means: the return of Tourist David!<br /><br />Friday night we mapped out our final plans and went to bed, eager to wake up early (five in the morning) and head out on our way to Tiwai Island for three days.<br /><br />Our plan didn’t quite work that way, but we’ll get to that later.<br /><br />The next morning came and we set out to the bus station at 5:30. We got on a government bus, which absolutely annihilates puda pudas in terms of quality, comfort and safety.<br /><br />That bus took us as far as Bo, the city I’ve heard so much about since I got here. I didn’t get to explore a whole lot but I got to have some delicious groundnut soup while we were trying to figure out how to get to Tiwai. Then two funny things happened.<br /><br />The television was set to SLBC, and “Inside the Media” was playing with my editor, Mr. Kelvin Lewis on it. I was very proud and told everybody who would listen “that’s my boss! I work for him!”<br /><br />After that program, a meeting began showing on the television. I lost interest because my boss was no longer on the television, but my friend Eric jumped up and grabbed a camera. It turns out he had been at this meeting, and wanted to get a picture of himself on the TV.<br /><br />Eric spent at least 30 minutes standing in front of the TV watching for himself. When he finally saw his face, he couldn’t snap a picture quick enough, only getting part of his nose in the picture. Oh well. We all saw him so we can back up the statement, “Eric was officially on SLBC.”<br /><br />All the while we were trying to find a vehicle to take us the rest of the distance we needed to go and were presented with two options: hire a taxi to take us or ride with an intoxicated police officer in his vehicle.<br /><br />Believe it or not there were pros and cons for both sides. The police officer was cheaper (Le 150,000, compared to Le 175,000 for the taxi) and had a jeep that we assumed could handle the bumpy roads better. But it also came with an intoxicated police officer who didn’t seem to know where exactly his vehicle was or when exactly it might show up.<br /><br />The taxi was more expensive, but could leave immediately. We were assured it could handle the road and the driver seemed genuinely nice (and sober). So we sat around and decided what to do.<br /><br />What would you have done in this situation? We chose the police officer. I know, I know but wait for the rest of the story. We voted 4-1 for the policeman and I think we told him, but I’m not sure if he heard us.<br /><br />We waited for an hour for his car to “show up,” not exactly sure where his driver took it and why the policeman wasn’t a little more upset that his car was missing. I feel like he would get in a lot of trouble if he didn’t return it at the end of the day.<br /><br />Finally, we got sick of waiting. He informed us the car was having some “problems” which was enough to sway the vote to a unanimous 5-0 for taking a taxi. The driver even lowered the price to Le150,000 and our minds were made. We hopped in and left.<br /><br />I wish I would have enjoyed my last few moments standing up before we left. It was the most comfortable I would be for the next three hours.<br /><br />I piled into the front of the taxi with one of my friends and the other three sat (much more comfortably) in the back and we set on our way. It was decided that we were the two smallest so we’d fit the most comfortably up front. I disagree.<br /><br />The trip wasn’t so bad until an hour in when the road got more than a little bumpy. It felt like the next two hours took forever because we had to go very slow over some pretty large dips in the road. Each one was felt by my bottom until it went numb about halfway through. It was a weird feeling but I think it was probably for the best.<br /><br />As we drove through the small villages on the way I heard many kids shouting my new name: “pumui.” Having flashbacks of my ampoto adventures in Kambia, I smiled and waved to the children as we drove through. They all seemed so happy to see us, and we were more than happy to wave hello to them.<br /><br />Eventually we made it to the river and the “ferry,” a motorboat that had a sign that said “5 maximum” on the back of it. We pushed that a little bit with six, but two of us weren’t very big. After all, we had both fit in the front seat. So we decided that combined we equaled the weight of five people. <br /><br />The ride across was incredible. The weather was perfect, the captain was nice and funny and the scenery was gorgeous. It was one of those “I can’t believe I’m here moments” and found its way to my “Favorite Places in Sierra Leone” list quite quickly.<br /><br /> Smiling and taking pictures we arrived to Tiwai Island, and eagerly waited for our captain to anchor (i.e. tie a rope around) his boat so we could venture into the incredible jungle before us.<br /><br />We were excited to spend the next two days of our lives there. Little did we know that not even 20 hours later we would be leaving Tiwai Island prematurely due to the rather severe illness of one of the members of our party. <br /><br />One of us woke up with a temperature above 39 degrees, a severe headache and no desire to eat or even move. In fact, moving a toe pretty much drained all the energy the particular individual had. <br /><br />Take a wild guess who it was.<br /><br />And, of course, the quest to get home wouldn’t be nearly as smooth as the trip to Tiwai Island was. In fact, it would turn into one of the longest days of my life.<br /><br />To be continued…Davidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01649679455670821733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3839612563961172316.post-73982760269186910412011-09-02T10:33:00.000+00:002011-09-02T10:34:09.804+00:00Column No. 33 - Dear President KoromaDear President Koroma
<br />By David Krueger
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<br />Hello Mr. President. You don’t know me (or maybe you do if you ever read this column) but I’m an American college student having the time of my life spending my summer working at Awoko Newspaper.
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<br />I’ll just cut right to the chase: I really, really want to talk to you.
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<br />I’ve never interviewed a head of state before, but I think that would be the coolest thing a journalist can do. The most famous people I’ve talked to are professional baseball players and Rick Steves, who has a series of books in the United States about travelling abroad.
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<br />You would obviously skyrocket to the top of that list.
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<br />I have about 1000 questions for you, but would happily scale that back to fit whatever time window you have. Whether it’s 10 minutes, 30 minutes or even (if I’m incredibly lucky) an hour, I feel like a conversation would be mutually beneficial.
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<br />I want to be a politician one day. After an illustrious journalism career, I hope to venture into the turbulent world of politics. I want to do a lot of things to make millions of peoples’ lives better because more than anything I just want to help people.
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<br />From what it looks like, that’s exactly what you’re trying to do. Your presidency is a much different one than that of U.S. President Barack Obama. However, you both have many of the same goals. Improving the lives of your citizens and insuring that there are proper educational and healthcare facilities are just a few.
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<br />I’m not coming at this from completely out of nowhere. While before I came here I mostly covered high school sports, I did spend three months in my state’s capital of Olympia covering the state government. I attended press conferences by the governor (sort of the President of the State of Washington) and worked on numerous stories about government.
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<br />While there my desire to be a politician was solidified. I saw how they interacted with each other and how they attempted to get things done (and block those on the other end of the political spectrum from getting their own things done).
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<br />I saw how the process works, and I know I can be successful in it.
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<br />It’s very similar here. I’ve read the newspapers, I’ve attended meetings of Parliament, and I’ve even traveled to Kambia and Port Loko to see the effects of your Free Healthcare Program. I’ll admit I’m by no means an expert on life in Sierra Leone, but I’m trying my best to get there.
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<br />I want to talk to you about everything, but can contain myself. I’d love to get your thoughts on everything from the 2012 Presidential Election to the Sierra Leone national football team. I have questions about the free healthcare as well as your soon to be released biography.
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<br />Most of all, I want to know how you got to where you are, why you want to be there and what you hope to keep doing while in power.
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<br />I don’t know if this is going to work. It probably won’t. But I think I’d win the Intern of the Year Award (which isn’t a real thing but should be) back home if I did. Interviewing you wouldn’t just be the highlight of my trip, it’d be one of the highlights of my life.
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<br />And a great story to tell my grandchildren one day.
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<br />I know you’re a very busy man. I understand that. You have an entire country to run. You have people to help, decisions to make and probably many more important things to do that would take precedent over talking to a foreign journalist who is only here for a few months.
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<br />However, I think the conversation would be fun for both of us. Any questions you have about American politics I’d be happy to try to answer, even if it’s just “did you vote for Barack Obama for President?” I’m not going to answer that question now, but will happily divulge that information during a chat.
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<br />I’m not trying to trick you or make you look bad (or good). I just want to be a journalist. I have questions that I’m just curious about. Many questions aren’t related to politics or presidencies at all. For instance, I’d love to know your favorite food. Mine’s jelof rice. I’ll share that information.
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<br />So I implore you to consider this request. If you don’t want anything written in the newspaper about it we can talk about that, although I’d beg you to not make that a condition of the interview.
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<br />This is a chance for the people to see the real Dr. Ernest Bai Koroma. Plus, it would give me the opportunity to be able to call my mother and professors back home and get to use the phrase: “I interviewed the President of Sierra Leone today.” It seems like a win-win situation to me.
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<br />Take some time and think it over and then please decide “yes.” Feel free to call or e-mail the Awoko office. I’m sure if they get a message from the President, they’ll get it to me quickly.
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<br />No matter what you decide good luck. You have an incredibly difficult job, and taking it on shows how much you care about the country of Sierra Leone. As the future President of the United States, I admire all that you are doing for this great country.
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<br />And I’d really love to talk to you about it.
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<br />Sincerely,
<br />David
<br />Davidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01649679455670821733noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3839612563961172316.post-89116668668002531432011-09-02T10:32:00.002+00:002011-09-02T10:33:30.164+00:00Column No. 32 - The rainy seasonThe rainy season
<br />By David Krueger
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<br />Believe it or not it’s sunny right now.
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<br />It’s not all that rare I suppose. It was sunny this morning too. But then it rained pretty hard for a while.
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<br />Sometimes it seems like the weather in Sierra Leone has a hard time making up its mind about what it wants to do. It can’t decide if it wants to rain, or be sunny, so it switches back and forth about every 20 minutes.
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<br />I feel like being a weather forecaster in Sierra Leone in August would be a pretty straightforward job. The prediction wouldn’t vary much from day to day.
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<br />“It’s going to rain hard, then be sunny, then likely rain again,” would be the daily forecast.
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<br />Usually I don’t mind the rain, as long as I have my umbrella. Unfortunately, there are three times this month I forgot to bring my umbrella and the weather made a fool of me.
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<br />The first time was when I went to meet a couple of friends for lunch at the beginning of the month. As I left the Awoko office I was greeted with sunshine. I strolled happily to the restaurant, ate some kren kren and then looked in terror out the window as we prepared to leave.
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<br />In the span of about 30 minutes the blue sky was completely covered up by dark gray storm clouds. Rain was falling from the sky like the Charlotte Waterfall. With no umbrella I did all I could, put my head down and walked at a brisk pace (perhaps it could even be classified as a slow jog) back to the office.
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<br />By the time I returned my hair was dripping, my shirt was soaked and my coworkers just looked at me and smiled.
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<br />“Where’s your umbrella?” they asked.
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<br />“Right over there,” I said pointing at the blue and white spiral in the corner of the office.
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<br />The second time was more my fault. I still didn’t quite have Sierra Leone’s rainy season figured out. I woke up to blue skies and thought “wow, today’s going to be a beautiful day.”
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<br />I arrived at work about a half hour later and already clouds had begun to form in the sky. I found out I was going with a coworker to a program downtown. We were getting ready to leave the office and I looked outside. I saw the clouds, but wanted to believe the blue skies I saw earlier would win out. So I left my umbrella at the office.
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<br />It turns out I was a lot farther away from the office than I thought. I once again returned looking like I just came out of a shower, to laughs and questions about the location of my umbrella.
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<br />You’d think the second time would have taught me my lesson, but no. Last Tuesday I ran to grab some lunch quick, just a three minute walk away from the Awoko office. I got there, ate and was walking out the door when the clouds opened up.
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<br />In disbelief that I once again found myself in this situation, I just smiled and walked back to the office.
<br />The rain poured down harder, and let up during the walk. I actually didn’t get that wet because I was able to spend the worst part of the rain under cover.
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<br />I’ve learned that along with my cell phone and about Le3,000, my umbrella is the third thing that I always need to have with me. The worst part about the third experience is that I had already realized this fact, and still decided to tempt the weather.
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<br />I had no one to blame but myself.
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<br />I don’t mind the rain at all. It rains a lot where I come from. Seattle is one of the rainiest cities in the United States, and that’s the first thing any American asks about when I tell them I’m from there.
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<br />As long as I have my umbrella with me it’s no problem at all. In fact, I even like the rain a little bit. It brings a few benefits along with it.
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<br />For instance, a short walk in the rain alleviates the need for a shower that day. Even a two minute walk will have you just as wet as 30 seconds under a shower.
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<br />The rain keeps people indoors, so there are fewer pedestrians to share the sidewalk with. This is especially beneficial in the rain because it cuts down on umbrella bumping. I don’t yet know the rules about what to do when approaching someone else with an umbrella.
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<br />Usually, I go high in the hopes that my counterpart will go low. Sometimes this works out. However, on many other occasions they also go high, causing a “phhhht” noise as the umbrellas rub across each other, followed by me gratuitously apologizing.
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<br />Finally, the biggest perk of the rain comes at night when I go to bed. Not only does the rain keep people from running around the streets outside my window screaming, but it also creates a calm, peaceful mood as it pounds against the roof.
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<br />Like I said, it rains a lot back home, and when the rain comes down here it reminds me of those rainy nights back home. And while I rarely ever have trouble sleeping, the rain usually ensures a good night’s sleep is on the way.
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<br />It feels like the whole year is the rainy season in Seattle. Usually June through September are a little nicer, although my family and friends back home have told me the weather’s kind of sucked this summer. So it looks like I won the battle weather-wise with my trip to Salone.
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<br />While I like the rain, I also really enjoy the sun. My very pale skin gives me about 20 minutes before my sunburn time clock runs out. Fortunately, right now that’s about how much time I have between rainstorms.
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<br />The weather here is a weird combination of predictable and unpredictable. I know for sure that it’s going to rain. I don’t know when or for how long, but I know it’s coming. Last week it rained for about 72 hours straight. While that wasn’t ideal, at least I had my umbrella on me at all times during this epic rainstorm.
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<br />Salone’s weather fluctuates more than world economies, which is fine with me, because I’ll have my umbrella. Sometimes I feel foolish walking around in the middle of a bright sunny day with my umbrella handle around my right wrist.
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<br />But then 20 minutes later the rain comes, and I feel pretty darn smart.
<br />Davidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01649679455670821733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3839612563961172316.post-11353983726621923972011-09-02T10:32:00.001+00:002011-09-02T10:32:39.097+00:00Column No. 31 - Sneaking into CollegeSneaking into college
<br />By David Krueger
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<br />It was reported on Monday by Awoko that numerous students at the University of Sierra Leone campuses were able to attend their universities because of documents they falsified in order to enroll in the universities.
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<br />While I don’t condone lying and deceiving to get what you want at all, I understand the pressure and the concern that might drive someone to do this.
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<br />Back in the United States, much like here, university is seen as a stepping stone to the “real world.” It’s pounded in our heads from primary school that if we want to get a good job or make a lot of money it’s vital for us to go to college.
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<br />The last two years of high school revolve around college, with tests, applications and nervous waiting as students wait to see what university they may be able to attend.
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<br />For some, it’s none. Many people don’t get into the university they hope for and instead go to a technical school, community college or apprenticeship program. This isn’t necessarily a bad way to go.
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<br />I have friends who have done all three that currently have jobs and much more money than I do. They also avoided student loans, something I was unable to accomplish. Currently, I find myself US $17,000 in debt.
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<br />However, I still believe I made the right choice to go to college. I mean, I’m in Sierra Leone right now! None of my friends can say that.
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<br />When I applied to the University of Washington (UW), I figured I had about a 20 percent chance of getting in. That number probably would’ve jumped to 90 percent if I had falsified my transcript and given myself better grades.
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<br />I didn’t think I would make it. I applied to a few other universities all over the country, from the University of North Dakota to the University of Southern California (my dream school that I had no chance of getting into without some administrative help).
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<br />I’m still not sure how I got into the UW, but I’ve thanked God every day since. Sometimes I think it was because of my application essay, but then I go back and read it and figure it had to be something else.
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<br />In all honesty, it was probably the fact that I already had a job at a local newspaper, and was very focused and determined on being a world-renowned journalist, and then President of the United States.
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<br />Do you really want to deny a potential future U.S. President admission to your school? I was banking on the UW saying “no” to that question, and they did.
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<br />My four years at the UW have been the best of my life. I’ve met some of my best friends, gotten to spend three months in Rome and another three in Freetown and had numerous adventures that aren’t exactly publishable, but were a lot of fun.
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<br />So I see why students would do this. I understand the pressure from friends and family to go to university. It’s seen as the way to a better life here, just like it is in America.
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<br />Unfortunately, colleges are selective of who they give these opportunities to. They demand the best, which, in turn, forces students to work hard in primary and secondary schools so that they have the chance to attend university.
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<br />This isn’t a perfect system. Some people don’t realize until it’s too late that they want to go to university, and may not be able to get their grades up in time.
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<br />Other students just don’t like school. They don’t like anything about it. Going, working, homework, tests all make school the last place in the world that some people want to be.
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<br />The fact is, university will always be selective, and as long as that’s the case, there will always be people on the cusp of getting in, that do things like this to ensure they’re admitted into college.
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<br />It’s like this all over the world. In America’s elite schools, like Harvard and Yale Universities, a lot of people feel that much of the admissions process is based on who you know. If your father went to Harvard, and your grandfather went to Harvard, and your great-grandfather went to Harvard, you’re probably going to go to Harvard.
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<br />Many people, who some call “jaded” and others call “realistic,” believe that in the United States if you have money you can get anything you want, including a top-notch education. I believe that’s true to a point, but once you’re admitted into Yale you still have a lot of work to do before you can get a degree.
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<br />Unless you pay off your professors (which I like to think would never happen at any university ever) you’re still going to have to do the work, and still earn the degree.
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<br />That’s where things get tricky now in Salone. Maybe the students lied to get into the school, but they showed that while they were at the university they could handle the rigor and demand of their college courses. They lied and cheated and deceived to get into the university, but then they did their work.
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<br />I presume they took the same classes as legitimate students where they wrote the same papers and took the same exams.
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<br />I agree that something needs to be done to fix this problem, and those who fooled the system and got what some may see as an illegitimate degree need to be punished somehow, but is taking the degree they spent years of their life and probably most of their money trying to get really the best solution?
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<br />If the general public knew this was going on, I think everybody would have tried it. I know I would have. If there was a way to sneak into the University of Southern California I probably would have strongly considered it.
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<br />And once I got there, I would have worked harder than any other student at the school to prove I belonged.
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<br />The students who snuck into college were probably more motivated than many of their fellow peers. I have to think they had a chip on their shoulder, sitting in class telling themselves they belong and can do anything the other students can do.
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<br />Which probably led to some good work. It probably led to learning and development. Isn’t that the point of university?
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<br />So why take that away and jeopardize their current careers? Whether under false pretenses or not, they worked hard. Why not instead use those who falsified documents to prevent it from happening again?
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<br />Work out a deal where if they go through how they were able to sneak in and detail each element of the process they can keep their degrees. Use their information to keep something like this from happening again. Use it as a learning tool.
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<br />This is college after all.
<br />Davidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01649679455670821733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3839612563961172316.post-23051306273620634952011-09-02T10:31:00.001+00:002011-09-02T10:31:59.487+00:00Column No. 30 - Redefining "Rebel" (and Libya)Redefining “rebel” (and Libya)
<br />By David Krueger
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<br />For as long as I can remember the word “rebel” seemed to have a negative association with it.
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<br />In all the wars that had “rebels” they were always seen as the bad guys. In the Sierra Leone Civil War, the rebels damaged everything they could get their hands on, including people.
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<br />During the American Civil War, the rebels called themselves “confederates” after they announced a “rebellion” from the United States, over many issues, most noteworthy the Emancipation Proclamation which freed all the slaves.
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<br />The Iraq War has its “rebels” that continuously attack the troops of Americans and its allies.
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<br />Using the thesaurus on my laptop, other alternatives Microsoft Word comes up for “rebel” are: dissident, insurgent, protestor, mutineer, renegade, maverick, agitator and radical.
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<br />It seemed like if you’re labeled a “rebel” you don’t have a good chance of success in whatever it is you are rebelling against.
<br />
<br />Then Libya came along.
<br />
<br />There, rebels are fighting back against the reign of the tyrannical Col. Muammar Gaddafi. Since March they have been fighting after protesting for, well, the right to protest.
<br />
<br />Gaddafi isn’t seen as a good guy in America. It sounds like it’s similar, but a little bit more complicated in Sierra Leone.
<br />
<br />After talking to a couple people I became aware of the impact Gaddafi has had on this great country, usually in the form of monetary donations. I know Gaddafi pumped a lot of money into the continent of Africa, and, unsurprisingly, some of that money made its way here. Which isn’t a bad thing.
<br />
<br />However, the way he treats his citizens is. Refusing to listen to them and instead meeting their pleas for freedom with tanks is not a good way to win the international world over.
<br />
<br />I found out Gaddafi was made an honorary member of Parliament because of all his generous donations, which included the building of a mosque.
<br />
<br />I don’t know if it’s possible to revoke that title, but Parliament might want to consider it.
<br />
<br />Everyone makes mistakes, even countries. The United States has been there. In the early 1990s we allied ourselves with a leader named Saddam Hussein. It didn’t work out very well for us in the end.
<br />
<br />About a decade later we were in an unpopular, controversial war with Hussein, that is still going on another decade later (despite the leader’s death), much to the chagrin of the American people.
<br />
<br />It’s viewed in America as easily one of the greatest mistakes in our history, and even one of the biggest errors in the world history by some.
<br />
<br />It’s okay to admit mistakes. It’s okay to move on. It’s like dating a very, very rich girl who isn’t any fun to be around and isn’t very pretty. It’s cool at first because she pays for dinner, takes you out in her cool car and buys everything for you, including lots and lots of Star beer.
<br />
<br />But eventually, you get sick of agreeing with everything she says, feeling insecure because you’re financially dependent on her and find yourself eyeing other, much more beautiful and pleasant women. So you break up.
<br />
<br />The world has finally broken up with Muammar Gaddafi. Libyans realized it had to be done, and eventually so did the rest of the world.
<br />
<br />On the news Tuesday morning appeared U.S. Republican Senator John McCain, the same McCain who ran for President three years ago. I hadn’t heard from him for a while, so I was intrigued when his experienced face came on the television here in West Africa.
<br />
<br />It appears most Republicans back home were against sending military support to the rebels, but not McCain.
<br />
<br />He said the U.S. should have sent the “full force” of the military to help the rebels, saying that using more American air support earlier would have saved more Libyan lives.
<br />
<br />McCain (and I imagine the American people) don’t want any U.S. soldiers’ boots on the ground in Libya. The last thing we need is to get involved in another transition to democracy. We should support Libyans in whatever way possible, short of actually sending military personnel to keep the country in control.
<br />
<br />The Senator says the goal should be to “get the government functioning as quickly as possible,” referring to the Libya National Transition Council (NTC), which is already recognized by most foreign states as the legitimate government of Libya (which probably made Gaddafi rather upset).
<br />
<br />Nobody seems to know where Gaddafi is currently residing. He claimed he would die a martyr in his country in the past, but now that it’s a legitimate possibility he may have changed his mind.
<br />
<br />Meanwhile, the rebels continue to push through the Libyan capital of Tripoli, dismantling Gaddafi’s army and all but winning their war.
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<br />Gaddafi’s fate is unclear, but the rebels of Libya appear to have a much brighter future in the coming days, months and years.
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<br />The Libyan rebels have dominated the news cycle for the past couple days, and really the last few months. I think it’s because the story may have a happy ending. It’s by no means there yet, but the world roots for those fighting for their freedom from oppression. In the end, democracy and freedom should win out.
<br />
<br />It’s what happened in the United States, Sierra Leone and is on the verge of occurring in Libya.
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<br />And it’s all thanks to an army of courageous, valiant and heroic rebels.
<br />Davidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01649679455670821733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3839612563961172316.post-88767307889194173762011-09-02T10:29:00.000+00:002011-09-02T10:30:57.150+00:00Column No. 29 - Musically InclinedMusically inclined
<br />By David Krueger
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<br />I’m not talented musically. At all. I can’t sing or play an instrument. I even sound funny when I try to hum a tune.
<br />
<br />Perhaps that’s why I was so impressed with the performances and students of the Ballanta Academy of Music on Saturday night. The school held its Annual Student Concert and Presentation of Certificates at the British Council.
<br />
<br />The students are talented. There’s no doubt about it. From Gladys Cummings-Wray, a Grade 2 Clarinetist, to Charlie King, the Grade 7 Vocalist who belted out John Kander’s “Mr. Cellophane,” they all impressed me.
<br />
<br />They impressed everybody.
<br />
<br />Thunderous applause was the norm Saturday night. Whistling and cheering became common noises.
<br />
<br />For the final scheduled performance of the night, the Five Star Brass Wind Ensemble played “King of the Road.” They were met with such an ovation that they asked the crowd if they wanted one more song.
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<br />We did.
<br />
<br />After the program I chatted with United States Ambassador Mr. Michael Owen, who handed out some of the certificates, for a couple minutes about the performances.
<br />
<br />“I thought they were good,” Owen said. “What you see is a lot of talent that needs to be developed. … They can do that at Ballanta.”
<br />
<br />That’s exactly what’s been going on for the last 14 years at the Academy on Liverpool Street. According to Mrs. Olufumilayo Chukwu, the Administrative Manager of Ballanta, the Academy is trying to teach its students how to read music and play it, not just try to reproduce what they hear.
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<br />“There’s a lot that’s happening musically,” said Chukwu. “But people only play it by ear. They’re musically illiterate.”
<br />
<br />Chukwu says that Ballanta sets “musical standards” for those attending. They learn how to read music and reproduce pieces properly, not just guessing at the notes.
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<br />One of the funniest and coolest moments of the night came while the Music Teacher’s Workshop participants were being awarded their certificates. Chukwu was reading the names, while the German Deputy Head of Mission Mrs. Heidi Sedleczki was handing out certificates to the graduates.
<br />
<br />While reading the names, Chukwu looked down at her list and began to smile a little bit.
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<br />“Olufumilayo Chukwu,” she announced. She then took a few steps to her right, shook Sedleczki’s hand and received her certificate.
<br />
<br />Chukwu continuously praised the Academy after the program.
<br />
<br /> “It’s a school where we want to teach classical and African music,” she said. “We’re here to give people who want to get a musical education the help they need.”
<br />
<br />Talking to Chukwu it was evident how passionate she was about the school, saying it takes up a lot of her time because of her job and the program she participates in. Sounding almost like she was trying to get me to enroll, she went right into how affordable the school is.
<br />
<br />“Our fees are very, very reasonable,” Chukwu said.
<br />
<br />She also pointed out that Ballanta works with the community to raise funds to help pay for some students’ school fees. Those students attend the Academy on a scholarship, and come to the school to use its instruments if they can’t afford their own.
<br />
<br />“It’s really a unique institution in Sierra Leone,” Owen said.
<br />
<br />I know that we have schools like this in the United States, but I think they’re much less affordable. I wish I had attended a school like this when I was younger. One of my biggest regrets is that I never knew how to read music. My other regret is that I never played American football. I could have been a great wide receiver. Now I’ll never know.
<br />
<br />In secondary school we have a class called “band,” where students play instruments together and learn how to perform pieces for numerous concerts throughout the year.
<br />
<br />However, my schedule was already full with English classes and my electives, Spanish and “Writing About Film.” I also loved my physical education classes where I got to play football, basketball, tennis and water polo, which was fun even though I can’t swim.
<br />
<br />I thought about that during the program. I pondered about how cool it would be to have the expertise to be able to play an instrument the way Alieu Deen plays the trumpet or sing like Raymond Arthur Jones.
<br />
<br />That’s not to say I’ve never tried. I regularly sing along with songs at bars, especially (and most loudly) whenever “I Love My Life” comes on. But there’s no way I’ll ever have the skill that the students of Ballanta have.
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<br />I realized that as I sat there watching students, some of which were probably half my age, mastering the piano, conquering the clarinet, dominating the tuba and controlling their voice. They were all obviously talented and, thanks to Ballanta, were able to hone that talent and master their individual crafts.
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<br />And put on one great show.
<br />Davidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01649679455670821733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3839612563961172316.post-82397265329407717522011-08-22T11:44:00.000+00:002011-08-22T11:45:35.659+00:00Life and Death
<br />On Thursday my biggest problem in Sierra Leone was trying to decide whether or not to give up on the “goatee” I’ve spent the last two weeks of my life working on. I don’t think it counts as a real goatee. I don’t think it counts as anything.
<br />
<br />On Friday I would have given my “goatee” or anything else I have to go back to the way things were on Thursday. I woke up to a text message from one friend that said the father of another one of our friends had passed away.
<br />
<br />It seems important to point out that the friend who texted me was also supposed to celebrate her birthday that evening.
<br />
<br />I felt really weird. And really bad. David is a local Sierra Leonean who is good friends with Mohamed, who works at the YMCA. He’s become close friends to numerous people staying there, including me. So when we found out what happened, we tried to do all we could.
<br />
<br />One person stayed home from work to be with David. Another rearranged her birthday so that we could all just be together that night. I did the only thing I could think of to help: I went to the supermarket and bought whisky.
<br />
<br />Sometimes, you just need a drink. This seemed like one of these times. Plus, as an American, I feel like while abroad it’s my job to bring whisky to any monumental occasion, good or bad.
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<br />That night we all hung out at the YMCA, drank whisky, listened to music and pretended like it was any other Friday night. We were all thinking about the same thing, but didn’t say it. Eventually, the music (I’m going to choose to account the rest of the night to that…but in all honesty it was probably the whisky) led us down the street to Krio Wendy’s, our go-to bar.
<br />
<br />We danced and laughed and had a legitimately good night.
<br />
<br />I never met Mr. Yarjah, but from all accounts he was a good father who loved David and his siblings. I don’t know what he died from, but it sounds like he had been sick for a while.
<br />
<br />I don’t know what I’m supposed to do now. Obviously, I’m here if David needs anything, but I’m not sure about the rules here. Can I go to the funeral? How can I help? Is it okay to write a column about this? The last one I’m not sure about, so that’s why I’m sticking to the safety and security of a blog post. Besides, I think like two and a half people read this anyway (the half is me…I don’t really proofread…this is all from the heart).
<br />
<br />I also really had a strong desire to talk to my parents after this, but was able to corral my nervousness until the usual Sunday night chats. My No. 1 concern here is that something will happen to a loved one back home. I worry more about that than malaria, break-ins, food poisoning or anything else.
<br />
<br />I worry about it while back home in the U.S. too. It’s definitely my No. 1 concern there as well. But here the distance just seems to amplify the feeling.
<br />
<br />For now, I’m going to continue to help my friend as best I can, whether it’s with a column about his father, having someone to talk to, or even another bottle of whisky (it’s pretty cheap here), all the while praying every night that everybody back home stays safe and healthy.
<br />
<br />Right now it’s all about that. I’ll worry about my “goatee” later.
<br />Davidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01649679455670821733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3839612563961172316.post-18796508211049479752011-08-22T11:42:00.001+00:002011-08-22T11:44:06.230+00:00Column No. 28 - My JournalMy Journal
<br />By David Krueger
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<br />It probably won’t surprise anybody that, being a journalist, I like to write.
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<br />My favorite writing is this, my columns for Awoko. I like writing for an audience. For me, it’s really cool to think that people actually take time out of their busy days to read this. Believe me, I appreciate that more than you can imagine.
<br />
<br />However, I feel like it’s also important to write for myself. Before I left the United States I bought a journal to write in while I was here. It was highly recommended that we have something to write in by my university. They’re never going to read it, but they still think it’s healthy to get your thoughts out on paper.
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<br />I agree.
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<br />Two weeks ago I talked about my friends, last week I talked about my coworkers so today I’m going to talk about something else that’s helping me out greatly in Salone. My journal is an invaluable tool to keep me sane and relaxed.
<br />
<br />It allows me an opportunity to dig deeper into my experience here. Often times after I write a column I re-read it and write about it in my journal.
<br />
<br />Other times the opposite happens. I’ll write in my journal a little bit and come up with an idea for a column. That’s exactly what happened about an hour ago that inspired this column.
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<br />My journal kind of accounts for a behind-the-scenes look at my trip to Sierra Leone. The fact that nobody else gets to read it makes it safe for me to complain about something.
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<br />It allows me to write things down that I can’t say to anyone. Every once in a while I have a less than spectacular day. It’s nice to be able to vent about what angers me, and not have anybody tell me that I’m wrong.
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<br />Other times I write about stuff that, quite frankly, nobody else cares about. Sometimes I don’t even care about it, but feel like I should include it in the documentation of my trip. Years from now I’ll go back and read my journal, and relive my trip here.
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<br />I’ll get to revisit the Port Loko Hospital and the Charlotte Waterfall. I’ll smile as I read about my friends and coworkers while visualizing their faces again in my mind.
<br />From January to March 2010 I studied abroad in Rome, Italy. I had a journal there as well. It was one of the first things I purchased when I arrived. It has the Coliseum on it. I always thought that was really cool.
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<br />While packing for Freetown I found that journal and went back and looked through it. It was pretty funny. I remembered exactly how I felt and where I was when I wrote each entry.
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<br />I also included artifacts from my trip, like my entry ticket to the Coliseum, a receipt from a meal in Prague and a flyer for the hostel I stayed at in Budapest.
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<br />As cool as it was I noticed one glaring fact about my journal: I didn’t write in it very much. Maybe once a week, if I was lucky. There were a lot more entries at first, then they tailed off toward the end of the trip.
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<br />Perhaps I was adjusted to life in Rome, or maybe I just didn’t have time to write. Either way, after I saw this I made a goal for my trip to Sierra Leone: actually write in my journal.
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<br />I figured since I was going to be here for 84 days, I would like to have 84 pages full by the time I arrive back home. It didn’t seem like that much. I just need to average a page a day. Or three pages every three days. It seemed reasonable.
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<br />At the halfway point of my trip (42 days) I had 36 pages written. I was impressed that it was that high, because I didn’t feel like I had been particularly good about writing in my journal. That night I went on a writing tear.
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<br />For an hour I transcribed the details of my life. I wrote about it being the midpoint of my trip and reflected on my first couple days and how far I like to think I’ve come since then. I talked about my friends at the YMCA and coworkers and how awesome they both are (that comes up a lot).
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<br />Finally, I wrapped up the epic seven-page entry talking about how I have no idea what my life will be like when I get home, as well as a few life lessons I’ve learned here in Africa. Like Rule No. 1, which is never look up. Ever. There’s always a spider there waiting for you. And it’s usually pretty big.
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<br />After that entry I was on page 43. I was one page ahead! I got really excited and pleased with myself, thinking that 41 more pages in 42 days would be a piece of cake.
<br />That was on Thursday, 11th August. Today (Friday, 19th August) is the first I’ve written in my journal since then. I’m not going to meet my goal if weeks go by between entries.
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<br />So I’m going to re-rededicate myself to writing in my journal. And part of this column is to keep me accountable. If you see me on the streets of Freetown, please say hello, and then ask me when the last time I wrote in my journal was.
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<br />I always carry my journal around in my backpack with me. It’s all black, and features the logo for the Seattle Mariners, a professional baseball team from my hometown. The Mariners are one of my favorite sports teams in the world, and my dream job is to cover a baseball team (like the Mariners) for a news outlet. In fact, I’ve even written about that in my Seattle Mariners journal.
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<br />I don’t know what the rest of my trip to Sierra Leone will bring for me, but I know I’ll be documenting it regularly in my journal. I’ll never, ever forget this trip, or the things that have happened to me along the way, unless I fall and hit my head and forget who I am, where I’m from and what I’ve done.
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<br />I sincerely hope that day never comes, but if it does at least my journal will make sure I can remember my time in Salone.
<br />Davidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01649679455670821733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3839612563961172316.post-58353299784323581532011-08-22T11:40:00.001+00:002011-08-22T11:42:27.665+00:00Column No. 27 - Happy Birthday AwokoHappy Birthday Awoko
<br />By David Krueger
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<br />This week Awoko celebrated its 13th birthday. I’ve been here for 48 of its 4,745 days of operation, and in that short time I learned early on how important this paper is to those who work for it.
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<br />The people at Awoko care about the paper. The reporters, for example, want to go out and cover programs. They want to write stories that help inform the public. They have journalistic standards that help them find the news value of a topic and write about it in a balanced and fair way.
<br />
<br />Those are just the names you see in the paper. Meanwhile, there are countless others that make the paper possible. From the cashier and security guard at the office, to the people who run the presses and actually print the newspaper, everybody works, usually around the clock, to get this paper out to its readers.
<br />
<br />Mr. Kelvin Lewis, the editor of the paper, cares about it the most. He’s very involved in the process of putting the newspaper together (in a good way). He even sanctioned sending groups of reporters around the country to look at the Free Government Healthcare program to see if it’s successful in helping the citizens of Sierra Leone.
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<br />Then there are the other editors, who go through my stories to make sure they’re perfect before they’re put in the paper. I try to make their jobs fairly easy, but more often than not there are quite a few corrections to make. I appreciate their work greatly. Because of it, I will be a better reporter, columnist and writer when I leave Salone.
<br />
<br />After I had been here for about a month I finally asked the two questions that had been on my mind since my first day of work. What does “awoko” mean and why does the logo have a parrot in it?
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<br />It turns out “awoko” means “somebody (or in this case, something) that talks a lot.” I feel like this is a very appropriate name for a newspaper. We talk a lot and hope the general public listens and remains informed.
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<br />The use of the parrot also suddenly became clear. Besides humans, I’m not sure if any animal talks more than a parrot. I’m not really sure if any other animal talks, but I still really like the parrot idea.
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<br />In the United States daily newspapers are closing every day. My home city of Seattle, a major metropolitan area, used to have two daily newspapers, The Seattle Times and The Seattle Post-Intelligencer. The latter closed over a year ago, leaving The Times as the only daily paper for over 3.4 million people.
<br />
<br />Here there is no lack of newspapers. I read over 10 per day. Some appear more balanced than others, but all are informative and give me a glimpse of journalism in Sierra Leone.
<br />
<br />I became very proud the other day while looking through my “Lonely Planet” guide to West Africa. The section on Sierra Leone is fairly short, but it includes an
<br />information box that lists Awoko as one of “the most respected newspapers” here.
<br />
<br />Obviously, I agree with Lonely Planet’s assessment.
<br />
<br />Awoko has been hosting interns from the University of Washington for the last five years, starting with Michael Carter in 2007. Michael came to one of my classes last December and talked about his experience in Sierra Leone. He spoke about it, years later, like it was the best time of his life.
<br />
<br />It was largely because of Michael that I applied for the Foreign Intrigue Scholarship, which sends students around the world to work for various news organizations. I made it very clear early on that Freetown, Sierra Leone was my first choice. I had googled Freetown and the first picture to show up was an incredible sunset over the ocean from Lumley Beach.
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<br />From then on, no other city could top Freetown.
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<br />I talked to two other people who had come to work at Awoko, Yu Nakayama (who came the year after Michael) and Lillian Tucker (last year’s intern). Both of them spoke incredibly highly of the newspaper, Mr. Lewis and Sierra Leone in general. Yu obviously misses it here. So does Lillian, who had to leave after only a month on the job because of health problems.
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<br />I’m very proud to be the fifth in what’s hopefully a long line of Washington Huskies that come to work for a summer in Freetown. I hope that next year’s intern finds me and I get to tell him or her all about my experiences, while informing them of how much fun their going to have working for Awoko.
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<br />For a journalist student there really is no better way to spend a summer. I’m living my dream job.
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<br />I get to report (which I’ve always wanted to do) and write a column (which I’ve really always wanted to do) about whatever I want in West Africa (which I’ve always wanted to visit).
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<br />Whatever happens to me I get to write about it and share the feeling with anybody who wants to read it. Some people don’t really care, and I understand that. But others I’ve talked to said they really enjoy my column, or a particular column. When someone tells me that it’s one of the best feelings in the world.
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<br />I’m going to be very sad when I leave not just because I’ll miss all the people and sights of Salone, but also because I’ll be leaving a job that I might never be able to top.
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<br />That just means I better enjoy it as much as possible while I can, which I think I’m succeeding at. I love my job, and anybody who talks to me quickly learns that. Everybody that I’ve met here quickly learns what I do.
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<br />So, I’d like to say thank you to Awoko for giving me the opportunity of a lifetime. Congratulations on putting out a great product for the last 13 years, and I wish you many more successful years of publication (and interns) ahead.
<br />Davidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01649679455670821733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3839612563961172316.post-39037946546378049912011-08-22T11:38:00.001+00:002011-08-22T11:40:53.611+00:00Column No. 26 - Waterfalls and ChimpanzeesWaterfalls and Chimpanzees
<br />By David Krueger
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<br />Most days in Sierra Leone I’m a reporter. On Saturday, I got to be a tourist.
<br />I hopped in a rather cramped taxi van with seven other friends and headed to the Charlotte Waterfall and the Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary, two locations I’ve looked forward to visiting since my arrival in Sierra Leone.
<br />
<br />Sitting in the back of a van with three other people as we were jerked around from side to side (and occasionally up and down) wasn’t the most fun I’ve had in West Africa, but the destinations made up for the bumpy, uncomfortable ride that resulted in a flat tire about 100 meters from the entrance to the chimpanzee sanctuary.
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<br />The first stop was the waterfall. The taxi drove down a rather large hill (this is important to the story later) and dropped us off at what was perhaps once a bridge over a small river. From there we met a man who really wanted to show us around.
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<br />We followed him to a church, a few houses and then we headed for the main attraction: the waterfall. We hiked along a path for about 15 minutes stopping only at a house where they charged us Le5,000 to visit the waterfall.
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<br />I’m not sure how this happened, but the owner of this house is brilliant. He or she realized that the house is on the way to a landmark, that lots of people want to see. I’m 99.9 percent sure the owner of this house does not own the waterfall, nor did he or she have any part of its wondrous development.
<br />
<br />Still, they found a way to profit off of the location of their home, and that’s pretty smart. Some might question the validity of the claim to money to continue along a path in nature, others might praise the owner for using good business sense.
<br />
<br />Either way, the person made Le40,000 from our group that day, and all they had to do was pop out of a window and ask for money.
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<br />We continued down the path, peeking through trees as we saw our target. The waterfall came into view about two minutes before we were there, and we all began taking pictures and walking faster. It’s really fun being a tourist.
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<br />Finally, we arrived at the Charlotte Waterfall, and it quickly became one of my five favorite places in Salone.
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<br />Just in case you were wondering, the other four, in no particular order, are: the Awoko Newspaper office, Kambia Africana Village, the YMCA in Freetown and every beach I’ve ever been to here.
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<br />The United States Embassy and Sierra Leone-Guinea border are honorable mentions.
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<br />The thing that separates the Charlotte Waterfall from those places is how overwhelmingly calm it is. We were there for about three hours and we accomplished quite a bit. We sat there, just admiring how breathtakingly beautiful the waterfall was. While there we ate a little snack to recharge our bodies for the rest of the day and I even got in a 30 minute nap.
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<br />I was so happy at the waterfall I made the comment (several times) that I would visit it every day if I could. The incredible view along with the perfect weather and comforting and soothing sound of water splashing against rock easily made this one of my favorite places in the world, let alone Sierra Leone.
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<br />Then I got stupid.
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<br />A friend quickly began climbing the rocks next to the waterfall, and I thought “that looks fun. I can do that.”
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<br />It turns out scaling up the rocks wasn’t the problem, that went by relatively easily. It was figuring out a way back down that quickly became the major issue. Fortunately, we found some tree roots that we were able to use to scale down the slippery rocks back to safety.
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<br />I thought the hard part was over. Turns out I was wrong.
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<br />Just as I got back down and was celebrating a successful adventure and a safe return with my friend, my right foot started to slide and the rest of my body soon followed.
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<br />I began sliding down the waterfall which was a terrifying and quite fun experience. It was terrifying because to my right there was a rather large drop off that I didn’t think would feel very good should I end up at the bottom of it.
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<br />This is also probably a good time to point out that the current looked very strong, and I can’t swim.
<br />
<br />The experience quickly became more fun as I looked to my left and saw a small (and safe) little pool of water that was only up to my ankles.
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<br />“Left! Left! LEFT!” I thought as I was sliding down the waterfall.
<br />
<br />I’m happy to report I was able to venture left into the little pool. Had I not been able to, you might not be reading this column today. And, the ride down was pretty fun.
<br />
<br />I ventured back up to my friends, who had a combination of relief, terror and even a little jealousy on their faces. It turns out my friend had taken a picture while I was sliding, that is probably my favorite picture taken here in Salone. My face, with a blend of fear and excitement, looks pretty hilarious.
<br />
<br />We all hung out at the waterfall for a little longer, I tried (unsuccessfully) to dry my clothes and then we headed back to the taxi.
<br />
<br />Remember how I said it drove to the bottom of a big hill? Well the taxi almost didn’t make it back up the hill. The ground was wet and soft, and the taxi was heavy, being filled with nine people. Sitting in the cab, we began to worry that soon we might be pushing this rather large vehicle up an even bigger hill.
<br />
<br />However, after a few tries we were able to gain some traction and head back up the hill, to visit the Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary.
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<br />This is another honorable mention for favorite places in Salone. It would have been higher, but it began to rain while we were there.
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<br />I had a lot of fun walking around the sanctuary. I got to see a baby chimp with its mother during feeding time in one encampment, as well as a large, angry chimp get mad in another area and start throwing things that began to bang against the fence in another part of the facility.
<br />
<br />I don’t know exactly what the chimpanzee threw at the cage and I didn’t wait around to find out. A worker at the sanctuary ushered us away before we could see much else.
<br />
<br />Then the rain began, which didn’t really affect me because I was already still pretty wet. Our tour drew to a close, as did one of the best days I’ve had in Salone. We piled back into our taxi for the bumpy ride home, hoping for no more flat tires.
<br />Davidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01649679455670821733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3839612563961172316.post-42116549494947598012011-08-15T12:22:00.001+00:002011-08-15T12:22:35.285+00:00The Official When I Get Back To Washington To-Do List
<br />The halfway point of my journey recently came and went on Thursday, and I got a little bit sad about leaving Sierra Leone. So, to cheer myself up, I made a list of things I’m going to do upon my arrival back to the states. I’m not excited (per se) to leave Freetown now, but the following activities (which, have for the most part been confirmed; the last four still require a bit more work to make happen but rest assured, they will happen) will definitely make going home a little bit easier.
<br />
<br />I think there’s something on this list that everybody will like. If you want to be involved in any of the following activities let me know and we’ll make it happen. Without further ado:
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<br />The Official When I Get Back to Washington To-Do List:
<br />
<br />-Go to Ocean Shores
<br />
<br />-Jay-Z and Kanye Concert
<br />
<br />-Go to at least one (or three) more Mariners games
<br />
<br />-Hit up the Ave. (for old time’s sake)
<br />
<br />-Go to North Dakota for a couple weeks
<br />
<br />-Get my motorcycle license
<br />
<br />-Go to the Apple Cup (and perhaps a bowl game?)
<br />
<br />-Get a job at ESPN
<br />Davidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01649679455670821733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3839612563961172316.post-1243855109018870092011-08-15T12:19:00.000+00:002011-08-15T12:21:39.497+00:00A little bit of North Dakota...in West Africa
<br />The weirdest thing just happened. But before I can tell you that story, I need to tell you this one:
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<br />There’s a Target in Grand Forks, North Dakota. Actually, it’s a Super Target. It’s huge. It’s about 1,000,000,000 sq. ft. (I’m estimating). It takes up about 1/3 of the city of Grand Forks.
<br />
<br />Okay those last two things aren’t entirely factually accurate, but the rest of this will be.
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<br />If you need anything in Grand Forks, that’s your place to go. Whether it’s a new garden hose, the latest DVD release, a tennis racket, anything, you’ll find it there. There’s even a Starbucks for us West Coasters to go get a coffee should we get homesick (or a Frappuccino. I hate how girly that looks. But their delicious. And I don’ t drink coffee. What the hell else am I supposed to do?)(I also hate that spell check recognizes Frappuccino and believes it needs to be capitalized because it’s a Starbucks Frappuccino. I bet cappuccino isn’t capitalized! Hey I was right!)
<br />
<br />Bringing it back. Almost every time I go to Target I run into somebody I know, and I don’t know that many people in Grand Forks. But it’s uncanny how often I run into friends, family and family friends.
<br />
<br />There’s another thing that happens EVERY time I go to Target with my family. I lose my Grandma and little sister. We always agree on a meeting place and time, but I always finish early and for some reason have this misplaced confidence that tells me “David, you can do it. I bet they’re in produce.” They’re never in produce.
<br />
<br />Thank God for cell phones or I’m not sure what we’d do. I’m convinced that before cell phones, people wandered around Super Target for days looking for lost loved ones. Trips to the grocery store probably took almost a week to complete. Although, if you’re going to be lost somewhere for a week, Super Target is the place to be stuck. They have everything you need to survive and then some (see above).
<br />
<br />Every time I go back to North Dakota I go to Super Target. It’s part of my vacation checklist, one of those things you just have to do. As soon as I get to North Dakota after I leave Freetown, the Super Target will probably be one of the first places I visit. It’s that awesome.
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<br />So why did I just spend 379 words (don’t worry, it’s right; I checked!) talking about a Super Target in Grand Forks, North Dakota. Because you had to understand how much that Super Target means to me, in order to realize how much the following event meant to me.
<br />
<br />I got home from work and took my polo off to change into a much more comfortable (and fashionable) Ken Griffey Jr. Mariners shirt (that’s right, I’m still representing in West Africa! Let’s go M’s! Get your heads out of your collective butts!). As I took it off, a weird smell entered my nose. It wasn’t bad or unpleasant, in fact, it was the opposite.
<br />
<br />It smelt like the Super Target in Grand Forks, North Dakota.
<br />
<br />I don’t know how to explain what it smells like, but that’s why my polo smells like. I suppose it just smells like any other Target, but my mind instantly went to Grand Forks. Stores here don’t smell like that. They smell different. Not bad. Just different. (Some smell like really, really old fish. They smell bad.)
<br />
<br />I haven’t been to that Super Target in over a year, and I don’t think this particular polo has ever been to that store. But now I have a dilemma on my hands. I love smelling my polo, and don’t want to wear it and have it lose its bulls-eye related scent.
<br />
<br />(Please don’t worry. It’s not lost on me how blessed I am that this is my biggest problem of the day.)
<br />
<br />I currently have my shirt sealed in a humidity-free, vacuum-sealed plastic bag. I think it’s going to stay there until I decide that I need to wear the polo again because I’m sick of the other four shirts I brought for work.
<br />
<br />Or until I buy another polo, allowing me to keep mine in the bag and preserve the aroma of Super Target (which would be the worst cologne ever). I know it sounds stupid, but I like that I can go to North Dakota whenever I want to, just by smelling a polo.
<br />
<br />These are the things I spend a good part of my day thinking about. I think I’m starting to lose my mind. Look for the next blog post when a dirty sock reminds me of New York City!
<br />Davidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01649679455670821733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3839612563961172316.post-45447692945865926642011-08-15T12:17:00.000+00:002011-08-15T12:18:44.551+00:00Column No. 25- On my ownOn my own
<br />By David Krueger
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<br />I spent the first six weeks of my trip tagging along with coworkers as they covered meetings, announcements and sporting events, helping them write stories, authoring a few of my own and observing how journalism in Sierra Leone works.
<br />
<br />Last Thursday I was sent to a press conference, on my own.
<br />
<br />I was a little nervous. I always feel a little anxious whenever I get ready for a work outing. I like to think it keeps me sharp and on my toes. Sometimes it just makes me do stupid things.
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<br />Like on the walk to Talking Drum Studios. I was headed there for a press conference about “The Team Salone,” a new television program co-produced by SLBC that shows the value of dealing with diversity through a football team trying to win a tournament.
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<br />On the way to the event, I was rereading the letter dropped off at the Awoko office to make sure I knew as much about the television series as I could before the press conference, so I could make sure that any questions I might have for my article would be answered.
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<br />I was so busy reading and coming up with questions that I didn’t see the window that had been opened and was sticking out into the walkway directly in front of me. My shoulder bounced off the window and immediately began to hurt.
<br />
<br />Fortunately, only about two people saw me run shoulder-first into the window. They couldn’t hide their smiles, but at least they didn’t say anything to make fun of the kid who walked directly into a window.
<br />
<br />With the window incident behind me I continued to the Talking Drum Studios office, or at least what I thought was the office. I saw a sign on a three-story building on Bathurst Street, but didn’t know how to get to that third story.
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<br />I walked around to the corner of the building, to what I thought might be the studio, but turned out to be a chemicals store. Fortunately, a very friendly woman who saw me rubbing my shoulder, took me around to the other side of the building and pointed me in the right direction.
<br />
<br />Once I finally got to the right room of the correct office I sat down and waited. And waited. I know that conferences rarely start on time here in Salone, but I figured I should be here a few minutes early just in case.
<br />
<br />I passed the time listening to reporters from other news outlets discussing next year’s Presidential election between Maada Bio and current President Dr. Ernest Bai Koroma. I didn’t participate in the discussion because I really don’t feel like I know enough about the political climate here in Sierra Leone to contribute anything to the debate.
<br />
<br />Eventually, the press conference began at 12:30 p.m., only about a half hour later than scheduled. I really didn’t mind. It gave me a chance to re-reread the letter and become an expert on this particular television show. Plus, sitting at a table, there were very few ways to hurt my shoulder while reading.
<br />
<br />The presentation began and the 15 or so reporters there immediately began feverishly taking notes. We heard all about “The Team,” which, quite frankly, sounds like a good show. It has a good message, one that I think everybody can get on board with.
<br />
<br />“It’s all around a simple metaphor: if you don’t cooperate, you don’t score goals,” said Ambrose James, the Country Director for the Search for Common Ground, which oversees Talking Drum Studios.
<br />
<br />After an overview of the program, the media was treated to the first ten minutes of the first episode. It’s a good show. The acting is very good and the actual football scenes are pretty well orchestrated.
<br />
<br />As the press conference began to wind down, and the other journalists were making sure all of their questions were answered I began to piece together my article in my head. I usually try to mentally outline my stories before I leave, in case I realize there’s some vital information I’m forgetting to get.
<br />
<br />One time I covered a high school basketball game for a newspaper back home in America and forgot to ask the coach what his name was. I was able to find it on the internet, but was still a little embarrassed that I forgot to ask my main source his name. I like to get as much information as possible now before it’s too late.
<br />
<br />Confident I had everything I needed I began to relax a little bit when another journalist inadvertently reminded me that my work was not complete. I saw him taking a few snapshots of the program and realized that was a really good idea. I had remembered to bring my camera along, and figured I may as well use it.
<br />
<br />After the pictures were taken and I was again sure I had all I needed, I waited for the final question to be answered and then headed back to the office to write my story. It went by fairly quickly, and it turned out I did in fact, have everything I needed. Including a picture, that ran with the story in Friday’s paper.
<br />
<br />Last Thursday was a fun day. It felt good to be able to go out on my own and prove that I can get stories done. I’m getting more and more confident and excited to work here in Sierra Leone every day, and I hope that feeling continues as I get to go out and cover additional programs by myself.
<br />
<br />This isn’t to say I don’t like going out with my coworkers, because I love doing that. I have a lot of questions about life here, and it’s incredibly helpful and informative to have someone along with me to explain what’s going on. However, it’s good to get out on your own once in a while. I like showing people what I can do.
<br />
<br />The only thing I might change is from now on while walking to press conferences I’m going to try to keep my head up. I can always reread and re-reread the press releases when I arrive, hopefully without a sore shoulder.
<br />Davidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01649679455670821733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3839612563961172316.post-39999051797652155792011-08-15T12:16:00.001+00:002011-08-15T12:16:32.798+00:00Column No. 24- The Halfway PointThe halfway point
<br />By David Krueger
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<br />Thursday marked the exact midpoint of my trip to Sierra Leone. I’ve been here for 42 days, and will be leaving in 42 more.
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<br />I realized this fact two weekends ago while lying in bed trying not to get sick. Even then, while I had my head under a pillow, I didn’t want to leave. I was sick in Sierra Leone, and, even now, there’s no place I’d rather be sick.
<br />
<br />When I first arrived here, the number of days I would be here (84) seemed rather daunting. I wasn’t worried I wouldn’t make it or anything like that, but almost three months is a long time to stay in a foreign land.
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<br />Now I can’t believe it’s already half over. The time has just flown by. That’s a testament to how much fun I’m having in Salone, and how much I enjoy being here.
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<br />It makes me sad that starting today I will be closer to the end of my trip than the beginning. I’ve had a number of incredible opportunities in my first six weeks here, and still have a few things left to check off on my Sierra Leone To-Do List in my final weeks here.
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<br />I want to go to River No. 2. Everyone says it’s the most beautiful beach in Sierra Leone. I want to see for myself. In order to verify this fact, I’ll also need to see numerous other beaches in the area. Comparing how beautiful and awesome beaches are might be the most fun activity in the history of the world.
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<br />For the last two weeks I’ve been trying to get to the Chimpanzee Sanctuary, and see the waterfalls on the way there. Two weekends ago I got sick and couldn’t move, let alone see chimpanzees, and last Saturday when I was supposed to go it rained constantly, making us question how much fun a trip to waterfalls and chimpanzees would be.
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<br />There’s still so much of the country I want to see. I want to see the other big cities I’ve read so much about in the news: Bo, Kenema, Kono and Makeni.
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<br />On the other side, I want to see the smaller areas and a few tourist spots, like the hippopotamuses on Tewai Island.
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<br />I want to be a fixture at Atlantic Crossing, Aces and Old School on as many Friday and Saturday nights as possible, and not lose my cell phone again at any of those places.
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<br />I would love to eat a bread and beans sandwich and not get sick.
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<br />I hope to continue writing columns that at least a few people enjoy reading about all of these activities.
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<br />Above all, I want to have a happy and healthy end to my trip.
<br />
<br />The first 42 days haven’t all been perfect. I’ve had my share of dilemmas in Salone too.
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<br />The first one that comes to mind is the spiders in Kambia, but that’s not the worst event. It’s close, but that title has to go to my room being broken into. Justified or not, it changed my perception of safety here in Freetown. I’m still careful about locking my bags and my room when I’m gone, and I am probably overly observant of people while in large crowds.
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<br />Next was the weekend I spent unable to leave bed. I still don’t know who to blame for this. It was my decision to eat the sandwich, but other people were going and encouraged me to come. Plus, the cook herself has to take some (or most) of the burden for giving me an unhygienic sandwich right?
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<br />Finally the Kambia Spider Wars. That wasn’t fun. I still think about it some nights while lying in bed. I don’t sleep very well afterwards.
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<br />However, meeting Mr. Njai in Kambia was so incredible it greatly diminished the horror of the Spider Wars. The food in Sierra Leone is so delicious (I still love stew green and ground nut soup) and dwarfs the drama caused by that one bread and beans sandwich. Everyone I’ve met in Sierra Leone has been so welcoming and helpful it’s helped reduce the fear and anger I felt after the break in.
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<br />I’m really becoming at home in Salone, and don’t really even want to think about leaving it.
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<br />Yesterday I began with a quote from a Beatles’ song. Today I’m going to end with one from rock group Bon Jovi’s mega-hit “Living on a Prayer.” The beginning of the chorus states: “we’re halfway there, woooooah oh, living on a prayer.”
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<br />I pray the next 42 days are just as phenomenal, informative, astonishing, beautiful and life-changing as the first 42.
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<br />With less break-ins and spiders.
<br />Davidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01649679455670821733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3839612563961172316.post-2417642802978849432011-08-15T12:15:00.001+00:002011-08-15T12:15:54.565+00:00Column No. 23- I get by with a little help from my friendsI get by with a little help from my friends
<br />By David Krueger
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<br />The Beatles, one of, if not the most famous rock group of all time, once sang “I get by with a little help from my friends.”
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<br />Apparently, they interned in Freetown.
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<br />Before I left America, I was worried I might get a little lonely in Sierra Leone. I didn’t know anybody here and didn’t (and still don’t) speak very good Krio.
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<br />However, it turns out my concern was unfounded. I was immediately welcomed into the Awoko family, which is just that, a family. Everyone looks out for everyone else. I’ve been incredibly blessed to have a great group of coworkers who constantly check on me to make sure I have stuff to do and that I’m doing okay and feeling happy and healthy.
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<br />Unfortunately, I can’t live at work. I’m not sure where I’d sleep. Perhaps there’s room by the cashier’s office and computer desk, but I’m not sure how comfortable it would be. It would also be hard to cook and shower.
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<br />So at night I head home to the YMCA, but I still don’t get lonely. I have another family waiting for me when I get back home. That’s right, I call the YMCA my home.
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<br />There’s a great group of people that are there, just like my roommates back in America. We ask about each other’s days, get some dinner and talk about life in Freetown before we all venture off to bed.
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<br />On the weekends, we go out to the bars together, and look out for one another to make sure everyone gets home safely. If one of us gets very sick, let’s say from food poisoning, another one rushes to the rescue and gets the sick individual home safely.
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<br />It’s a very impressive group of people.
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<br />For instance, look at Mohamed. He’s a first year student at Fourah Bay College, working on a degree in peace and conflict studies. His goal is to be President of Sierra Leone. I’ve already assured him that when I’m President of the United States, the U.S. and Salone will have an incredibly strong relationship. I’m looking forward to this day.
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<br />Mo also was a receptionist at the YMCA, but left to go study in the U.K. He came back and works at the YMCA, taking great care of everyone. He arranges rooms (which he also orchestrates cheaper, long-stay rates for), dinner/dancing excursions, money exchanging and anything else someone needs. Mohamed hopes to study in America through the Fulbright Scholarship, and then come back to Sierra Leone to help his country. I can’t think of anybody better suited for this award.
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<br />Then there’s Anaïs, a PhD student working for the Max Planck Institute for Social Anthropology. The eldest of the group, she has taken on the roles of pharmacist, chef, accountant, tour guide, Krio teacher and therapist among others. In fact, it was Anaïs who got me home while I was the sickest I’ve ever been in my life. I’m still thanking her for that.
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<br />As a child, Anaïs lived in Freetown while her father worked at the department of French at Fourah Bay College for four years. She returned for a research project in 2008 and is now studying the role of the Sherbro ethnic group in national reconstruction and social cohesion in Sierra Leone. She has been here for four months and will remain here until midway through 2012.
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<br />Anaïs enjoys the provinces more than the big city of Freetown, but admitted she likes hanging out on the balcony of the YMCA, where she feels like “I am part of the furniture now.” She also likes dancing in the rain at Krio Wendy’s.
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<br />Magdalena, who hails from Austria, writes reports for the Campaign for Good Governance. “Auntie M,” as she’s been called (see, I told you we were a family) hand-picked Freetown over other possible summer destinations in Nairobi and South Africa.
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<br />“Auntie M” wants to work for a non-profit group, and hopes her experience here will help her with that. She’s working on getting two Master’s Degrees back home, which should also benefit her job hunt. Like Anaïs, she likes going out in Freetown. She loves the “lively” mood around the city, and the “beautiful, beautiful landscape” in the area around it.
<br />
<br />There’s also a large German contingent at the YMCA, starting with Katharina. She is an intern at the Association for Rural Development’s Microfinance institute. She observes and helps with the loan disbursement process, which decides who gets approved for a loan.
<br />
<br />Katharina likes her job because it’s exactly what she wants to do when she’s done with school. Her favorite part of the job is actually visiting the clients and getting to know different people in various tribes outside of the big city. Like everybody else at the YMCA, she enjoys going out, and is having a great time in Sierra Leone.
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<br />Finally, there’s David. Or “German David” as he’s sometimes known. (You might have correctly guessed that that would make me “American David.”) Born in Sierra Leone, he left for Germany when he was one year old. He came back to Salone in 2005.
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<br />Now, he has one year left at Fourah Bay College, where he’s studying economics. Even though we share the same name, there are very few physical similarities between us. I’m about 1.7 meters tall, and he has to be over 2 meters in height. He speaks German and Krio (and, fortunately, English), I speak English and a very little bit of Spanish. He’s tall, dark and handsome, I’m short, pale and hopefully at least decent-looking.
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<br />There’s a saying back home that says something along the lines of friends are the family we choose. Or is it that friends can become your family? I’m not really sure. The main point is to describe how important friends are in our lives.
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<br />My trip to Salone wouldn’t be the same without them.
<br />Davidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01649679455670821733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3839612563961172316.post-47721193941857725722011-08-15T12:14:00.001+00:002011-08-15T12:14:53.053+00:00Column No. 22- Writing PostcardsWriting postcards
<br />By David Krueger
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<br />I got an unforeseen day off on Monday when I woke up and my left eye was redder than a fire extinguisher. I had this feeling that I shouldn’t go to work and spread my eye infection to all my coworkers so I remained at home and got a few things done.
<br />
<br />One of those things was writing postcards. I had been putting it off for about three weeks, and finally didn’t have an excuse anymore. It’s not that I don’t love my friends and family. It’s just that writing and addressing 15 postcards takes a while. Two and a half hours to be exact.
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<br />However, once I got on a postcard roll the time passed rather quickly. I figured out a “system” that for some reason I believed made the process go faster.
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<br />First, I addressed all the postcards. This is the biggest part of what caused the delay. I had to talk to my mother and father back in America to get addresses for 13 of the 15 postcards. Once I did that on Sunday, there was really no reason not to start.
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<br />After all of the postcards were addressed, then the process of actually writing messages began. This part took the longest, but it was by far the most fun. I had a rotation of stories that I could tell people based on what I thought they’d like to hear about.
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<br />For instance, my aunt and uncle who are very proud of my graduation from journalism school got to hear all about how awesome my job is. My friends back home in Marysville, where it rains a lot, got to hear about the rainy season. My father’s postcard began with a sentence in Krio.
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<br />The postcard to my mother assured her that I was doing fine and all of my friends and coworkers were taking good care of me, while the postcard to my grandparents talked about how much fun the family reunion in July looked based on the pictures I saw on Facebook.
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<br />I didn’t mention the eye infection in any of the postcards. It didn’t seem important enough to bring up.
<br />
<br />There were a few similarities that each postcard shared. They all sent well wishes to the reader, hoping that their summer back home was going well. Each individual postcard was also dated (“8/8/11”) because I’m curious to see when they arrive at their destination. They are going all over the country, and even the world.
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<br />One is going to my aunt and uncle in Tennessee, on the east coast of the United States. A few are going to family members in the Midwest, and a large contingent are on their way to Washington State in the Pacific Northwest.
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<br />Now that I’m done and preparing to go to the post office to send these off once and for all, I’m realizing how therapeutic writing the postcards actually was. Yesterday morning wasn’t the best as I woke up with an eye that looked like it belonged to the Terminator.
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<br />But, as I wrote each postcard, and thought about some of the cool things I’ve done in the last month, I couldn’t help but smile as I realized what an extraordinary trip I’ve had. And I’m not even half done! That mark comes on Thursday.
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<br />I really began to appreciate all I’ve been through so far. The more I wrote “8/8/11” the more I couldn’t believe that it was already August 8th.
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<br />As soon as I finish writing this I’m going to run to the post office and ship these postcards off. I’m excited for them to reach their various destinations. I hope that they bring smiles to those who read them. I want someone to see a postcard in their mailbox and get really excited. I’m pretty sure that none of my friends and family have a postcard from Sierra Leone already.
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<br />The one, minor concern I have is whether or not the postcards will arrive. Any time something is shipped from one continent to another there are a number of chances for it to get lost. But I’m going to put my trust in the Sierra Leone and United States Postal Services, and hope that they can deliver my postcards for me.
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<br />I’m not going to go so far as to say it was a good thing I woke up Monday morning with an eye infection, but the negative occurrence was able to have a positive impact on my life and the lives of 29 people soon to receive postcards (some are addressed to entire families). I like turning bad events into good results.
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<br />It makes me feel like I’ve accomplished something, and triumphed over adversity.
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<br />The worst thing about eye infections, which I get back home way more often than I’d like to admit, is that I cannot wear my contact lenses. I have to wear my glasses if I want to be able to see, which I usually do. Unfortunately, I strongly dislike wearing my glasses. They’re too big for my head, and make my face look kind of funny.
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<br />On the other hand (or in this case, the other eye) the infection could have been a lot worse. My eye already almost looks normal, minus the glasses that are hanging over them. Plus, I finally had the time and energy to write 15 postcards, and send greetings from Sierra Leone across the world.
<br />Davidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01649679455670821733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3839612563961172316.post-76907249350997286852011-08-15T12:12:00.000+00:002011-08-15T12:13:22.773+00:00Column No. 21- My No. 1 ProblemMy No. 1 problem
<br />By David Krueger
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<br />There are many differences between the Sierra Leone and American cultures. This probably doesn’t surprise anybody.
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<br />What does surprise me is the one difference that has become the biggest challenge for me here in West Africa, and I bet it’s not what a person would expect. It’s certainly not the main issue I thought I’d be facing on my trip.
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<br />It’s not the food. That’s delicious. It’s not the sporadic electricity. I brought a lamp. It’s not even the driving, which can be reckless to say the least. I actually really like the motorbike rides.
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<br />No, the issue that I’m having the hardest time dealing with here is the assumption that seemingly everyone has that I have a lot of money.
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<br />Because I don’t.
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<br />I literally emptied my bank account to come here. When I get back to America, I’m going to have $0. I hope my father will be happy to see me on his couch for a couple days until I can find a job, since that’s probably what’s going to happen.
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<br />Every morning the first thing I do when I get to work is figure out how much money I spent the previous day and try to rework a budget for the remainder of the trip based on that. Right now it’s very close. If I eat nothing but bread the last two days I’m here I should be okay.
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<br />In other words, I’m not going to be buying much September 18th through the 22nd.
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<br />It’s not like I’ve been blowing through money uncontrollably either. Paying for my room is expensive, but aside from that I usually can slide by on about Le8,000 a day, which is about the equivalent of two U.S. Dollars. Really the only things I’ve purchased that I didn’t absolutely need were a Sierra Leone football jersey and an Africana shirt. You know what, no. I needed those.
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<br />But I didn’t have a lot of money before I came, and the money that I do have is quickly being taken away from me for lodging and food.
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<br />Money is my biggest concern for this trip. My health is a close second, but if I ever get really sick (even sicker than last weekend which I pray doesn’t happen) I’m going to need money to be okay.
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<br />All this leads me to my problem: everybody wants money from me. I’m convinced it’s the reason half of the people I’ve talked to in Salone approached me. Who am I kidding? It’s probably at least 90 percent.
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<br />I learned early on that people with white skin were automatically assumed to be rich. It probably doesn’t help that I wear button up shirts every day either. That’s not my fault though! I’m trying to be professional for work. Believe me, I’d much rather be wearing a t-shirt.
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<br />The truth is I feel bad when I say no. Friends and coworkers have told me not to worry about it; that they understand. But I still can’t shake the feeling that I’m disappointing them. Whether it was because of the color of my skin or not, they still came to me for help, and I couldn’t give it to them.
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<br />I really don’t like the feeling like I’ve let somebody down. Sometimes, I feel like as a poor white person, I’ve let everybody in this country down.
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<br />Believe me, if I’ve told you “no” (something I’m not particularly good at) I guarantee I feel just as bad if not worse than you do.
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<br />I know that I can’t change a countrywide stereotype with one article, especially since it is unlikely the people asking me for money will read this. Sometimes it’s just therapeutic to write about. I’m sure there’s at least one other white person somewhere in Freetown who feels bad when they turn someone requesting money down because they just don’t have it.
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<br />It’s been bumming me out since I got here, and I want to fix it. I wasn’t sure how, but I think I finally have a solid plan.
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<br />Sierra Leone, I know you like to bargain, so let’s try that. Right now, I have no money. It’s like I want to buy an Africana shirt, but don’t have sufficient funds. The merchant wants Le50,000, but all I have is Le5,000, and that’s obviously not enough. So what do you do?
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<br />You go home, get more cash and come back. Except in my case, there’s no more money at home. I’d have to really go home (to America) to get more money, and then come back. And that’s exactly what I’m going to do.
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<br />Years from now, when I’m old(er) and rich, I will come back to Sierra Leone. I will buy that Africana shirt, and help as many people here as I can while I’m at it. Now, I’m not going to be throwing money around in the streets and causing a riot, but I will find a way to help many of those in this great country.
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<br />I’ve had a lot of help here in Salone, and I want to give back. I really do. I just can’t right now.
<br />Davidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01649679455670821733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3839612563961172316.post-81345786478648877342011-08-04T13:51:00.000+00:002011-08-04T13:52:21.292+00:00So, uh...what the hell?I know I’m halfway around the world, and I know there are a million other things I should be more worried about than this, but I just can’t stop thinking about one thing:<br /><br />Seattle Seahawks, what the hell are you thinking?<br /><br />I don’ t know how to feel. On one hand I’m excited, because Sidney Rice is coming to town. So is Zach Miller. The former single-handedly beat me one week in fantasy football. The latter helped me dominate my league(s). [Until both championship games. I don’t want to talk about it.]<br /><br />And who’s here to throw to them? Tavaris Jackson. The same Tavaris Jackson I’ve heard my grandfather complain about the entire 2010 football season. I mean the ENTIRE football season. “Where the hell is he running?” and “I wonder if he knows how stupid that was” were the two nicest things he said about him.<br /><br />It’s ok though. We have “options” at quarterback. Option No. 2 (or No. 1…who the hell knows? Nobody’s really winning this game) is the great Charlie Whitehurst. I say “great” because just typing “Charlie Whitehurst” makes me depressed. I’m in a humid, dark room in Sierra Leone with a sore throat and babies crying all around me. This might just be what puts me over the edge.<br /><br />I know Matt Hasselbeck was old(ish). At 36, he’s closer to 40 than 30. He’s also closer to 60 than 1, but who cares? People love Matt Hasselbeck. I love Matt Hasselbeck. People will rally around Matt Hasselbeck. Matt Hasselbeck demolished the Saints with a slightly above average receiving corps and an offensive line that was held together with silly putty. The large man across the street could probably be at least a third string offensive lineman on the Seattle Seahawks.<br /><br />Now, Matt’s gone. Although if he had to go somewhere, I’m so glad he went to Tennessee, who I’ve decided have officially leap-frogged the Minnesota Vikings as my second favorite team. They may even take over the No. 1 spot and the dynamic duo that is Jackson and Whitehurst. (That sounds like the crappiest law firm ever. I hate this.) I only know four people on the team:<br /><br /> 1.) Jake Locker (he’s all you really need to know. He’s the future!) 2.) Hasselbeck (he’s going to mold the future. Jake lucked the heck out. 3.) Chris Johnson (almost murdered my fantasy football team last year, then saved it a couple times; he’ll be ok this year though. Matt will whip him into shape.) 4.) Kenny Britt (I think he’s on the Titans. I’m not really sure. I feel like I’ve heard of Tennessee Titan Receiver Kenny Britt before, but now I’m having second thoughts).<br /><br />The moral of the story is: I’m not going to miss much being gone for the first three weeks of the football season. I might not even check until I get back. News/scores are kind of tough to get here and I’d rather not know the Seahawks are 0-3 running the “Owlcat” (a formation they’ll develop with Jackson, Whitehurst and fellow All-Star/rock star QBs Jake Delhomme and Derek Anderson behind center). Again, why the hell not?<br /><br />Of course, it’s always possible that the General Manager of a professional football team knows what he’s doing. Maybe it’s a strategy. Upgrade every position on the football field except the position that matters the most. <br /><br />I didn’t say it was a good strategy.<br /><br />I’m sad. I always envisioned Jake and Matt on the same team…only it was the Seahawks! Can you imagine Hasselbeck mentoring Jake, who will have Zach Miller and Sidney Rice as his go to guys for the next four years? The Seahawks could have made it happen. But they didn’t.<br /><br />And now I’m sitting in Africa, typing this and trying not to cry. I had to go buy my first chocolate of the week because I was so sad. Which wasn’t the worst thing. Twix are awesome! So I guess this wasn’t a complete loss. At least not until the next NFL season starts.<br /><br />Luckily, my fantasy football team will still be awesome. This year we’re going from 2nd to 1st. Together we can…win the Together We Can football league. Gramps, Chris, Swaney, Casey, KJ, Natalie, Chris’s Dad, and all the people I don’t know. It’s on! David’s back for 2011 and I’m promising more trades (at least trade offers), smack talk and victories than last year! <br /><br />This took a weird turn. I wasn’t going to announce my fantasy football dominance when this started. But that’s how life is sometimes. You never know what’s going to happen. It’s always up in the air. You win some, you lose some.<br /><br />Unless you’re starting Tavaris Jackson or Charlie Whitehurst at quarterback. Then you’re going to lose everything.Davidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01649679455670821733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3839612563961172316.post-11193699065463986592011-08-04T13:50:00.000+00:002011-08-04T13:51:26.866+00:00Column No. 20-Learning KrioLearning Krio<br />By David Krueger<br /><br />It made sense to me that if I was going to live somewhere for three months I should speak the language. If I was in a foreign land where I couldn’t talk to anybody for 84 days, I could see myself getting lonely very fast.<br /><br />I read up on Sierra Leone, and learned that English was the official language. This made me really excited. I speak English! This was going to be a breeze.<br /><br />Then I heard about Krio, which people and books described as “pigeon English” or “broken English.” Again, I felt confident in my ability to communicate with those speaking Krio and turned my attention to other items on my pre-departure checklist, like vaccinations, which were not fun.<br /><br />Turns out I should have done a bit more brushing up on the Krio language. It is based on English, and I can understand some of it, but it’s not nearly as easy to pick up as I had hoped. After actually studying Krio for the better part of last week I know about five phrases. <br /><br />Fortunately, I can get pretty far with those five phrases.<br /><br />Phrase No. 1: “How di bodi?” See this is easy to understand in English. Literally, “how is the body,” this is the most common greeting I’ve found in Sierra Leone, along with Phrases Nos. 2 and 3: “How di wok” (“How is work?”) and “How di morning/day/evening” (“How is the morning/day/evening”)?<br /><br />These make up the bulk of the Krio that I actually speak on a daily basis, which sadly isn’t very much yet. However, once in a while I like to throw a new phrase at my coworkers and impress them. That’s where phrases Nos. 4 and 5 come in. Sometimes it’s an “I dae go na hose” (“I’m going to go to my house”) or a “hosei you dae go” (“where are you going”)?<br /><br />I’m not going to say that’s all a person needs to get by in Sierra Leone, but it’ll get someone a long way. I wanted to learn more though so I borrowed a Krio Manuel from a friend and began taking notes. There I learned numerous gems like “tehnki” (“thanks”), “ohmohs” (“how much”) and “reni” (“rainy”).<br /><br />Then things got really fun.<br /><br />I came across my favorite Krio phrase by far: “aw de go de go.” I just love how this sounds. If you’re reading this column out loud, you just had a lot of fun. Admit it. It means “how are things?” and is a useful phrase that can be used every day with everyone. <br /><br />I can also introduce myself, and provide the utmost basic information to a stranger. Although it’s rare for me to try to throw down this much Krio at once, I have tried, rather unsuccessfully, to get through it a couple times. I messed it up, but the people I was talking to still seemed to understand what I was trying to say and smiled as I gave it my best.<br /><br />I started with a “kushe” (“hello”) to get the conversation started. After a greeting I was asked my name. I answered that it was David and “a kohmohn na America” (“I am from America”). My chatting companion seemed pleased and then asked me a question I didn’t understand.<br /><br />But I didn’t panic. I thought I heard “wok” in the question so I shot right into the reason I was here. “A kam wok na Awoko Newspaper,” I said proudly.<br /><br />Turns out, I hadn’t been asked why I was here. I wasn’t even asked about work. The gentleman I was talking to asked me how long I was here. <br /><br />At least he seemed to be impressed by my pride in my employer.<br /><br />Will there be a column completely in Krio before I go? It’s highly unlikely. But it’s good to know what people are trying to say to me, as well as what’s going on in the world around me. I can understand some Krio if I listen very carefully. <br /><br />I also know when my coworkers are talking about me. Although, the fact that they’re looking at me and smiling while they talk also kind of helps to give it away.<br /><br />Lately, I have a tendency to blend Krio and English into what I like to call “Kri-lish.” A common Kri-lish phrase is “hello, how di body?” Another good one is “Aw di wok go yesterday?” I like this because everybody can understand Kri-lish. There’s usually sufficient Krio for Sierra Leoneans to understand, and just enough English for me to get by.<br /><br />Over the next two months I hope to continue to learn more and more Krio. While I doubt I’ll find a phrase cooler than “aw de go de go,” I would like to one day be able to carry whole conversations in Krio, even if it’s just a 30-second chat. I think I’m off to a good start. <br /><br />A nem David ehn a de lan lili bit na Krio (“my name is David and I am learning a little bit of Krio”).Davidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01649679455670821733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3839612563961172316.post-83470282648309143082011-08-04T13:48:00.000+00:002011-08-04T13:50:10.552+00:00Column No. 19-My life on shuffleMy life on shuffle<br />By David Krueger<br /><br />Sometimes my iPod just understands me.<br /><br />At night when I can’t sleep, I tend to grab my music player and put it on shuffle. Now and then it plays a perfect playlist to put me right to sleep. Other nights it surprises (and startles) me by blasting some German techno that my friend put on my iPod and didn’t tell me about.<br /><br />Tuesday night, was a beautiful, almost poetic blend. <br /><br />The very first song featured Drake, a Canadian rapper who’s one of my favorite musical artists. I feel like I can relate to his songs, especially the following line, which I couldn’t rephrase any better if I tried:<br /><br />“Homesick just when I thought I was sick of home.”<br /><br />Now, I’m not really sick of home, but I was really excited for my trip. I wanted to get out and see the world, and leave my city behind for a few months. Saturday and Sunday were the first time I was really hit with homesickness, as I laid in bed and struggled to lift and drink a small bottle of water.<br /><br />“Homesick” is an interesting phrase. I’d bet at least Le5,000 that it comes from somebody who was traveling abroad and wanted to go home because they got sick. <br /><br />I imagine that while going on tours for months at a time, Drake occasionally gets sick. I bet it’s those times were he also gets a little homesick, even though he thought he was sick of home.<br /><br />Next up on the playlist was a little rock n’ roll, with an alternative rock group called Forever the Sickest Kids. The song was perfect for two reasons.<br /><br />First, the name of the song is “Keeps on Bringing Me Down,” and the chorus begins with: “why does the world as I know it, keep on bringing me down?”<br /><br />This past weekend, and even up to today as I’m still not fully recovered, the world (or at least a bread and beans sandwich) definitely brought me down. It not only brought me down. It took me down, kept me down and beat me up while I was down. <br /><br />Second, the very first line of the song made me smile when I heard it: “It’s a sunny day on the west coast.” <br /><br />I know they’re talking about the west coast of the United States, probably California because the only other states on the west coast are Washington (where I’m from) and Oregon and trust me, there are very few sunny days in either of those states.<br /><br />However, I’m currently on a west coast and on Tuesday morning/afternoon it was even sunny for about 30 minutes. Then the clouds came, along with torrential downpours, and the sun went away. But, at least for a little while, I too had a sunny day on the west coast.<br /><br />Really silly things like this make me feel better. Which is why the next song assured the playlist was going to be a winner.<br /><br />All of a sudden I heard one of my favorite songs by two of my favorite artists. Lil’ Wayne and the aforementioned Drake collaboration “Right Above It.”<br /><br />This is why I’m sure my iPod loves me. I listen to this song a lot. Not only does it have a catchy hook and some very smart rhymes by the two hip hoppers, but it’s one of the best songs to listen to if a person ever just needs a pick-me-up or wants to feel a wave of confidence rush over them. <br /><br />I needed both.<br /><br />I lip-synched along with Drake and Weezy (as he’s known back home because of his unique voice) until I got to my favorite part of the song, which I sang so loud I wouldn’t be surprised if the people downstairs heard me.<br /><br />Lying in bed, all tucked in for the night, bobbing my head up and down, and smiling uncontrollably I belted out: “Life is a beach, I’m just playing in the sand.”<br /><br />It’s probably important to note that this was my favorite part of the song long before I got to Sierra Leone. But, now that I’m here (and have played in the sand several times) it’s definitely one of my go to songs while going to bed, getting ready in the morning or just sitting around my room writing in my journal.<br /><br />To be incredibly honest, I wasn’t sure how the shuffle could get any better, but it did. Favorites like “Good Life” by OneRepublic and “No Hands” by Waka Flocka Flame helped ease me into a deep sleep. The former talking about how “this has gotta be the good life” which, for the most part, Salone has been. The latter is a good get-pumped song that reminds me of bars and clubs back home.<br /><br />A few more songs played as my eyelids began to get heavier and heavier. Just when I thought it was about time to shut the iPod off, “Where We Gonna Go From Here” came on.<br /><br />As the title suggests, the singer (one Mat Kearney) is unsure of where his life is going to go from the current point. If there’s any song I can relate to right now it’s this one. I don’t have any idea what’s going to happen tomorrow, let alone when I get back from Sierra Leone.<br /><br />I don’t have a plan. I’m terrible at making them, and I feel like they rarely turn out how they’re supposed to. After I return to America as a college graduate I have to try to find a job. Somewhere. I could stay in Seattle, or end up somewhere across the country like New York or Miami. I really don’t know where I’m going to go from here. At all.<br /><br />To call this song soft rock is an understatement. It’s so calm and soothing it could have single-handedly put me to sleep.<br /><br />But it didn’t have to.<br /><br />It had the help of the World’s Greatest IPod. I wonder what it’s got planned for me tonight.Davidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01649679455670821733noreply@blogger.com0